February 2022 outturn | 46% ABV

Fighting For Recognition

The arrival of the latest Cadenhead’s Original outturn kicks off 2022 from one of Scotland’s best-loved independent bottlers. On paper, this is a release of six bottles in total, but my wallet can only stretch to two (thanks Gav for the additional 3rd sample, and follow his refreshing YouTube channel), so I’ll apologise in advance for the limitations of my spending power.

Missing in action are the Caol Ila, the Inchgower and an undisclosed Speysider, which rumours suggest is a family-owned distillery that likes to have red doors on its warehouses. Hmmm, I’ll grant you a guess as to what that might be. Suffice to say, I may pick up some of these in due course with a particular interest around the Inchgower and you can see the full line-up over at Cadenhead’s.

The Original range is the newest effort from Cadenhead’s who tend to have an assortment of styles and labels in a vast array of releases across each year. I suspect they have more than enough casks within their inventory to support even more. The Original range is about value, availability and showcasing all manner of distilleries in a natural presentation with the strength reduced to 46%. Like many reading this article, I can live with this ABV and I’m always an exponent of adding water, so if it takes the sting off a retail price, then that’s a positive.

The initial motivation of the range is an introduction, but also to offer a selection that fills the gap between blended and single malt cask strength prices. You know, when you walk into a shop and you want a whisky without selling a kidney or taking out an instalment plan? Not falling prey to those individuals that queue up overnight at shops and distilleries in the search of a quick profit. An honest and appreciative malt from a range that you can count upon being plentiful and overlooked by the stamping herd of investors. The mythical price point of circa £50 was mooted a few years ago, although in recent times that’s probably elevated to £60-£70. It all depends on your perception as to what’s an acceptable price for an honest everyday dram.

It goes without saying these are early days for the range. Some hardcore Cadenhead’s fans have been vocal in their criticism when the first releases landed and the concept was revealed. I suspect some of this was flamed by other ranges coming to an end – like the Cadenhead’s Creations – which I was a big fan of. Personally, I count myself as a fan of Cadenhead’s, but I’m able to step back and consider the overall picture. There were some solid whiskies within the initial Original outturns, yet with prices not too far removed from their cask strength equivalents, it felt like a missed opportunity and somewhat confused in execution.

We’ll talk about pricing as we get into the trio, as the theme does present itself on both sides of the equation. Before kicking off, I do have some recommendations for the great guys and lassies at Cadenhead’s, who do read these things. Firstly, ditch the oversized cardboard packaging. It’s larger than the more simplified Small Batch boxes and feels unwarranted in this day and age. Just like Springbank has made progress around packaging, so should Cadenhead’s. The back label feels like a missed opportunity. If cask details are in short supply, then why not offer a brief summary of the distillery history? The old neck tag booklets offered some insight into prior Cadenhead’s releases and it might encourage potential customers to try something new. In its current format, there’s almost no benefit to having that back label.

With this episode of Points Of View concluded, let’s begin with some more liquid based opinions. 

Review

Ardmore, 2010, 11yo, finished in fresh pino noir casks, 46% ABV
£55 or thereabouts from Cadenhead’s

Nose

Bacon crisps, fatty and smoky. A twist of raspberry coulis and some freshly laid down rubber tracks. There’s a lovely interplay between the red berries and the Highland Ardmore peat. Tar, coal dust, it’s like stepping back in time. Mustard seeds. Crunchy peanut butter. Liquorice, blackcurrant jam and red rhubarb. My great friend, Rose, also suggested freshly spread manure, and once this great note is in your head, you cannot shake it off, as its ripe and bang on.

Palate

Less robust and rugged than I was expecting. Ashy on the finish but faintly, more cracked black pepper, a coal bunker, figs, tobacco and ground clove. Flashes of aniseed midway, dark chocolate, baked potato skin. A gentle smokiness throughout, assisted by bacon fat, embers and orange zest. Wholemeal bread and a farm yard vibe.

Review

Glen Elgin, 2009, 12yo, 46% ABV
£49 check your local Cadenhead’s

Nose

lovely and fresh, so Glen Elgin in its confidence with crushed white grapes, white wine, lime zest and a noticeable spirit element. However, there’s more balance without the cask or lack of, dominating. Vanilla, apple puree and light honey. Soft pears, pain aux raisins and sugar cubes. Birds Eye custard powder, fresh planks and orange pips.

Palate

I dislike terminology such as fruit bomb but you can feel the echoes of a sentiment here. Creamy and full of zest. More of those meadow fruits, vanilla sponge and a real fresh vitality. Chalk dust, orange residue, pineapple chunks and white pepper.

Review

Heaven Hill, 2009, 12yo bourbon, 46% ABV
£77 from Cadenhead’s

Nose

A very agreeable experience with grape juice, polished oak, buttered almonds and coconut. There are cherries, plenty of honey, marzipan, peanuts and all-spice with some peppercorns. Hints of orange, dried fruit and caramel with the presence of vanilla.

Palate

Well-rounded and satisfying. Hickory chips, dried fruit, walnuts and dusty cinnamon. Fruitier than I anticipated, with green mango. Fennel, chocolate, dill, pine cones and woody in places with some nougat as well.

The Dregs

Ardmore always delivers and it’s landed with style again. Plenty of whisky in this bottling to get your chops around and savour. The most dependable of malts, I’d put it up there with Caol Ila and thinking about it more, I actually believe it’s more adaptable with its subtle peat characteristics. Buy a bottle and enjoy the ride across the North East of Scotland, enhanced by a worthwhile cask finish. Very good value.

The Glen Elgin is a lovely wee thing. Unpretentious and self-assured in its delivery. A gentle cask influence helps underpin an enchanting nose without overstaying its welcome. It’s also punchy on the nose at 46% and holds its own quite well.

I’m a big fan of old blends (if you didn’t know already) and I’ve had a lot of Glen Elgin in my time, either as a single malt or as part of a blended recipe. You can appreciate why it has always been in demand by blenders. In some respects, this whisky has a simplistic beauty to it. The experience is one that you’ll keep reaching for – all too easily – without too much thought. Like some of the best dishes you’ll taste, it’s more a handful of flavours and aromas coming together in perfect harmony that rise above a lavish cavalcade of posh characteristics and Michelin techniques.

The Elgin is also big on value being a sub-£50 release and this is what the Cadenhead’s Original Collection should be delivering more of; speaking of value…

We all know the price of bourbon and especially anything connected with Heaven Hill is increasing in perceived value and demand. On this side of the Atlantic, that translates into price increases, even so, I don’t see this translating into a huge demand locally. Many of the UK bourbon enthusiasts really appreciate and demand cask strength. So, they wouldn’t consider this a fair deal, which leaves those with a fleeting interest or those who buy sipping supermarket bourbon. Neither of these markets will jump at the prospect of a £77 Heaven Hill given prices elsewhere.

That’s a shame because I quite enjoyed this (deducting a mark off for price) as a go-to-easy drinking bourbon. What would also be of interest is the duration of maturation in Campbeltown. Bourbons I’ve had over the years matured in Campbeltown do take on an added dimension, making them of interest. Unfortunately, noting the prices I’ve paid in recent times for the single cask bourbons released by Cadenhead’s, it makes Heaven Hill a very hard sell at the current retail price.

Based on this trio, the Original range is worth further attention and exploration, or revisiting if you’ve not been impressed previously. If you’re disillusioned with chasing whisky currently (and who wouldn’t be during Springbank month) for the mere act of drinking the stuff! Then, you might find some solace and enjoyment among these Original releases.

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM

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