Peat-in-progress | 57.7% ABV

This Is Our Barometer On Price.

It almost seems like a complete and utter piss-take that in 2021 you can purchase a Kilkerran for £45 or slightly less. With each passing year, we’re becoming accustomed to paying more for our whisky, in what arguably has become a journey of diminishing returns.

Diageo are rumoured to be pushing up their prices by a modest 6% across the board, but the Talisker increases, along with Lagavulin and Oban, are bordering on obscene. Ok, yes, they are totally obscene. Other whiskies are also increasing their asking prices and economic considerations are increasingly at play when we decide on how to spend our whisky budget.

Price is more important than ever before, which is why it should always be considered. Now, you’ll see some consultants or social influencers who blatantly avoid the topic of price. Perhaps that’s just a reflection of the gravy train they find themselves snuggly on. The unwritten rule is pricing shouldn’t form part of the review because of the fear of upsetting the hand that feeds. The reality is likely to be somewhere between both destinations. A simple question to such a privileged individual would be, “Would you purchase it for the retail price?”

What might be palatable for your wallet might be too much, or barely significant, for another. The personal argument falls off a cliff when the writer suddenly delivers their tasting notes – the most personal aspect of any verdict. With whisky now being seen more as a commodity, values are attached to the majority of releases, so why not discuss price?

Continued value in Batch 5

Value for money is a big consideration and a growing one. There’s no doubt Kilkerran is one of the few distilleries (yes, it’s called Glengyle) that can boast such an attractive proposition. That’s even with a more manual intensive process and higher costs than many other efficient distilleries across Scotland. Yet their releases still come in at a price under many other producers, which is either financial suicide or actually being fair to consumers rather than shareholders. It makes you think even with high taxes, how such an enterprise continues to grow in appreciation and demand. How can other producers charge much more for more mechanical, automated and efficient products?

And yet Kilkerran is a victim of its own success and pricing strategy. Never in full production all year round and not 24/7 to maximise what time it does have. The whiskies we are seeing now were laid down 4, 8, 12 and 16 years ago. There’s no booster or alternative - no quick path or accelerated maturation at its disposal. Only time and patience to appreciate what few bottles we’ve managed to acquire and explore. Kilkerran offers value not only to the drinker but to those looking for a quick profit. Such tricks aren’t guaranteed success as several bargain hunters have picked up releases in the Heavily Peated series and more power to them. Kilkerran more so than many other releases is priced to be opened and shared.

The latest Batch is the 5th in the series, bottled at 57.7% and its recipe features 85% bourbon and 15% sherry in its makeup. So far, these batches haven’t offered tremendous variation. Instead, they have delivered slight differences and the appreciation of a quality dynamic peated spirit, which can stand up to anything the rest of Scotland dares to call peated.

The Heavily Peated range for its age has been a firm favourite of many. While many haven’t been blown away by the contents, arguably its greatest achievement is to remind us all that you can deliver a drinkable and well-priced cask strength whisky in today’s modern age. Once you’ve gone down that road to Campbeltown and the Glengyle distillery, for many, there isn’t a need to look elsewhere.

Review

Kilkerran Havily Peated / Peat-in-Progress Batch 5 2021, 57.7% ABV
£45 at launch

Nose

Smoked ham hock, dried mushrooms and sherbet UFOs – remember them? Quite zesty in places with lemon featuring. Rice paper, toffee and roasted hazelnuts. Rock-solid peaches, green apples, Kiwi fruit. Water produces more smoke but also condenses the experience, making it less expansive. Some sweetness with golden syrup and honey poking through.

Palate

More of the ham and hay smoke, oily and a smouldering intensity. Poppy seeds. Lemon sponge and wet wood or bark. Old apples past their best and quite peppery towards the end. Water again brings out more sweetness and charred bacon.

The Dregs

More than many whiskies, it’s releases such as this that underline the 10-1 approach we’ve instigated overall. In terms of value, this scores very highly. The whisky itself is youthful and punchy. There’s still that sense we’re on a new work in progress, heading towards somewhere that isn’t entirely clear. Yet as far as destinations go, it’s the ride that’s the most enjoyable aspect. The complexity isn’t present but you can appreciate the strong foundations that are taking shape in Campbeltown.

Labelling this range as Heavily Peated might do it an injustice for some onlookers. Possibly giving an impression that it’s all about the peat and nothing else. If you can, pick up a bottle and spend time with it. Take on the journey for your own experience and see what a sub-£50 whisky can offer. Good, not great, but no complaints whatsoever.

Score: 6/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM