Stonehaven Whisky Howff | 55.7% ABV

Tasting notes

A Private Dancer

Do you buy into the whole New Year resolution thing? Generally, I give it a wide berth because as an onlooker, such statements rarely result in a significant change. Many are ditched or forgotten about by the time we head into February and we resort to old habits. However, this year I made an exception, and for some of you, I guess it might have involved a whisky theme such as buying or consuming less in 2022?

Rather than following such liquid influenced motivations, I took inspiration from all things musical, specifically vinyl. Given our indoors nature lately, my record player has been taking a pounding and filling the environment with all manner of sounds and not just the Hey Duggee album. No, my motivation isn’t to buy more vinyl – haven’t you heard there’s a worldwide shortage as it is? Initially blamed on Adele (probably the first and last time she’s mentioned in a whisky article), the source of the chokehold on production has been placed at the famous feet of the Beatles and George Harrison box sets. Whoever the finger of blame points towards, all I know is later this year I’m going to have an angry postman handing over handfuls of delayed albums.

My sonic adventures have motivated me to make a resolution to read a musical biography of some form per month. We’ve kicked off the Killer himself (Jerry Lee Lewis) in what was a very entertaining and eye-opening account; particularly his drummer. Currently, I’m reading Robby Krieger’s trip down memory lane with the Doors and various stories of Jim Morrison; who could share similar characteristics with flippers who leave empty-handed. For an encore, we have a champion swearer in Miles Davis and the tragic tale of Nico. So, an entertaining addition to my usual daily routine.

While resolutions are often to stop something or bring it under control, I’d rather look at it as an opportunity to start something with a clean slate and jump into a whole new adventure. But where am I going you may ask? The most obvious comparison is to talk about Discogs and legitimising flipping behaviour; something we’re all aware of nowadays. Perhaps the fact that Gregor (who is the brains behind the Lady Of The Glen) enjoys his vinyl and therefore has potentially good musical taste. However, that angle would be too obvious for our knowledgeable readership. Instead, thinking of a metaphor outside of the whisky realm; a large percentage of the musical world (and vinyl supply) is taken up by the big companies and releases, thereby leaving the smaller labels to be pushed aside. This reminds me of the whisky focus on official releases and the bigger name distilleries. The smaller firms and individuals are left to fend for themselves and make their own voices heard.

We’re all guilty of being lured by marketing, lavish packaging and the promise of extras; things that smaller labels and bottlers cannot provide or hope to compete with. I’ve seen it on countless occasions in stores where shoppers overlook a plain and simple bottle presentation, instead reaching for a curvy bottle with a glossy label. Some labels might look like they’ve been printed at home and slapped on without too much emphasis on quality control, but to quote Rab C. Nesbitt (one of Scotland’s greatest philosophers’), let me tell you, boy… some of the finest singles and albums I’ve experienced have come in cheap photocopied sleeves and feature the most basic of artwork. Experience tells me that we shouldn’t place too much emphasis on the outside and that what resides within is the true marker of quality.

Not that I’m suggesting the Lady Of The Glen slap their labels on without too much thought! Far from it. If anything, I actually prefer that hand-fashioned element and a hint of the human touch. Something that we’re seeing less and less of with many whiskies now. Remember distillery tours? It’s possible to complete the tour without seeing a single distillery worker, or when you do, they are often transfixed by a computer screen and unaware of what’s happening nearby. That’s where the new smaller distilleries come into their own with more staff on the floor (not literally) and the human element making whisky.

So, here at Dramface we’re going to cover what we can from the big names to the new starters and shy labels. These all plug into the whisky realm and make it what it is. It seemed like a perfect moment to deliver our debut Lady Of The Glen review, who are based in Fife and going from strength to strength.

It might be a name you’re familiar with, tried a dram or even purchased a bottle of. Lady Of The Glen has been around for a few years now and I can still recall the early days with some great casks. Today’s offering is from the ever-reliable Islay stalwart of Caol Ila and was distilled on 20th March 2013 before being bottled at 7 years of age on 13th January 2021. A common criticism I hear for the label is pricing and this has sold out, suggesting that – for this release – the price was indeed right. Although sometimes I feel so out of the loop when it comes to consumer demand and what others will pay for Islay whiskies. I’m more of a Campbeltown person, where pricing is often at the other end of the spectrum.

Gregor has been enjoying finishing whiskies lately as it allows him to put his own stamp on a specific release. This bottling was originally in a hogshead for seven years and then 50 litres were deposited into an ex-Pedro Ximenez octave and bottled for Stonehaven Whisky Howff in association with Fountainhall Wines. An octave is a much smaller cask, which means more wood contact in a shorter period and this stage only took three months to produce the results to then bottle those 50 or so litres, resulting in an outturn of 58 bottles.

Although this bottling has departed from retail, hopefully, my chat about smaller and lesser labels (or bottlers) will encourage you to try not only Lady Of The Glen but other indies who are doing a sterling job. My thanks to George once again for the sample.

Review

Lady of the Glen 2013 Caol Ila 7yo , 55.7% ABV
Sold out only 58 bottles

Nose

Redcurrants, damp wood and earthy peat greet you initially. A handful of old brass tacks, honey roasted ham, raspberries and deep within this mix are Custard Cream biscuits with a sprinkling of salt. It’s the peat that still punches above the power of the octave.

Palate

 Immediately it’s the silky texture that captures your attention before a pepperiness is joined by the earthy peat into the finish and rock salt. Turmeric and a savoury beefy element. An old-fashioned ginger loaf appears in my mind; the sticky and dense variety. This whisky is quite woody in places however with elements of dampness and sawdust that linger on the palate.

The Dregs

This whisky isn’t hugely expressive and this sometimes happens with octave finishes. There is just enough to keep your interest. I know there’s a big demand out there for peated whiskies with sherry. Some octave finishes go too far and I’ve had a couple involving Caol Ila that certainly have tipped over the edge. This particular one is heading in that direction, but hasn’t fallen into the abyss. I think it’s drinkable and inoffensive without rocking your world; another solid Caol Ila.  

Score: 5/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM