River Rock Whisky
Single Malt Scotch| 40% ABV
In Danger Of Being Washed Downstream?
What’s in a name or in a whisky? The Scotch Malt Whisky Society are the prime exponents of abusing whisky names, but provide full details of the contents when you break through their numerical code – they’ve even started being more upfront about finishes! Finally, some progress for consumers. But when it comes to River Rock, what does it tell you? The name in my mind conjures up some remote town in America where bourbon is plentiful and modern conveniences are a long drive on the highway on the way to civilisation. The mobile signal is ropey and the locals are as poisonous as the indigenous wildlife.
The reality of the brand is somewhat different in reality. Inspired by the great outdoors, my initial perception was on the right track, but on the wrong continent. In fact, Scotland’s outdoors inspired the name that led me astray to distant places with big trucks and chequered shirts. Fair enough, we can pick up on wrong signals and messages. It does go to show you how powerful a name is when there is little information to rely on as a consumer.
Having been around the whisky block a few times, I can remember when River Rock was revealed and people were interested, or at least stimulated to ask questions. Did I know much about the whisky and those behind it? The interest stemmed from the involvement of Bill Farrar, Laura Anderson and Mark Geary and their prior work with distilleries such as Glenrothes, Highland Park and Macallan – otherwise known as Edrington. Such experience formed part of the promotion and arguably placed emphasis on illustrious name and stirred the expectations of consumers, who were eager for quality whisky at a reasonable price. Adding to the fanfare was the prospect of a ballot in 2020 for the initial 100 prototype bottles. Ah, it all seemed so innocent in 2020, when ballots and queues hadn’t reached the scale and fever that they have today.
Like many potential consumers, I visited the official River Rock site and cut through all the marketing in search of real information. Yep, I’m talking about the contents in the bottle. In reality, it was easier to find information on the green-tinted glass (using wonky glass material and 100% recyclable paper) than what was contained within. River Rock is 100% plastic free, which is commendable in this day and age, yet the acid test will always be the whisky itself – just what about that? Here’s pretty much all we know:
We spent three years searching for the perfect whisky. A single malt which is sweeter, more welcoming with no aggressive aromas or 'burn'. Aged in American bourbon casks for an easy-going sweetness with a spicy oak finish.
Feeling I was working too hard to find out a reason to investigate further or even contemplate a purchase in 2020, I moved on to pastures new, leaving River Rock to find its own way into the whisky world and change my mind. That later date arrived in 2022, when visiting a friend and organising a sample and bottle swap. He offered me some of the River Rock. My memory recollection spurted into life, even though the brand was a blip on my radar its echo was still present.
“How is this one?” I asked as I picked out the River Rock, only to be greeted by a shrug of the shoulders and that look which says more than a thousand words; average and very forgettable. As you can see from the photograph, the price sticker was still in situ after all this time; confirming a remarkable £41.99 for what is essentially a no age statement whisky, bottled at 40% strength. A hard sell if there ever was one. “Oh, we didn’t pay that for it,” my friend retorted. “I recall we had £5 off which made it more palatable.” It seemed like a defence of having made the purchase at the time, as the whisky had failed to deliver anything sustainable in their experience.
Armed with a heathy 15cl sample for this article. I reworked my initial steps, back towards the River Rock site, down that dusty trail, to see if much had changed. The brand has ticked over with some environmental twists and a silver award at the Scotch Whisky Masters 2021 event – another set of awards I had to look up, which are run by the Spirit Business magazine. I’m possibly out of touch in deepest, darkest Fife, but I place little importance on awards, especially those where a brand has to pay to enter. You can read their terms and conditions which I suspect are very standard across the competition sphere. This distorts the whole premise of an award in general. Take for example the Scotch Malt Whisky Society who love to announce winning awards, as do the industry in general. These throw out titles such as ‘best independent’ but only consider those that have paid the entry fee or nominate themselves; it becomes misleading. Throw in single cask medals with scores reading into the mid-90s and you begin to see the reality of the situation. Namely, awards become a gimmick to sell and offer little substance beyond trying to give a false impression of quality.
The harsh reality of competitions is something that no doubt inspired the Online Scotch Whisky Awards which debuted in 2021. Now, it may surprise you that I didn’t get behind these awards, or not yet at least. I had issues with the name as online translated into YouTube and that’s what these were seen as initially in my mind, right or wrong. The panel of invitees featured some individuals I had issues with. Personally, I would hope to see a wider selection in 2022, individuals from across the online portal including podcasts, bloggers, Twitter and then I might come off my fence.
However, the premise is sound in letting the public vote on these things. Not consultants or so-called experts who have too many ties to the industry and cannot unchain themselves when it comes to an independent opinion. Influencers that live on freebies and are wined and dined, invited names that sing from the same hymn sheet – those that are not in touch with the common man or woman when it comes to whisky. I hope it goes from strength to strength with resilient and independent leadership.
Part of the whisky illusion of quality also comes with the offering of free samples or bottles to individuals that are seen to have some form of influence. You’ll know the ones. And River Rock has a selection of candidates that consistently say nice things without being critical or rocking the boat, or in this case, the river. You have to possess a strong moral framework to accept a freebie and still be true to yourself. Believe me, I’ve seen it over the years – you may have as well? Things can become cosy and complicit – even on a subconscious level without realising. You need an anchor and if your lifeline is relying on an income from such statements, then you can already sense the internal struggle, which is why many just give in.
That’s how I see it anyway. As friendly as things can be in the industry, the score is important as is honesty and transparency. Boat rocking by deploying the truth isn’t something consultants and whisky experts engage in. Personally, I can see many with a bucket, frantically trying to throw water overboard to keep the vessel afloat. A fun image but sadly a home run in the reality stakes.
At the end of the day, it always comes down to the contents. Despite the good environmental messages and links with worthwhile associations, a whisky needs to stand on its own two feet and deliver. That’s all I care about, as much as our home participates in recycling and trying to minimise our carbon footprint. We’re all here to enjoy a dram and bring a little more clarity to the River Rock experience.
Lean and green
Review
A No Age Statement unknown single malt, 40% ABV
£36-£42 widely available
Nose
White grapes giving a wine-like aspect, lemon cake and a spirit element. White pepper, pancakes, pine wood and vanilla.
Palate
Less spirit based than expected with vanilla still being the dominant core. There’s a sappiness and pleasant oaky aspect.
The Dregs
This is an ok whisky, overpriced on the basis of taste, but an easy sipper. This was underlined when compiling the tasting notes. I sat it alongside the Shackleton blended malt, which you can pick up for under £20 if you shop around. The Shackleton is my everyday drammer and remains enjoyable. At half the price there is no competition whatsoever. Yes, the River Rock is an unknown single malt, but if anything, we shouldn’t judge single malt vs blended malt vs blended whisky. It should be united by the key component that is what we know as whisky.
The difficulty for River Rock is establishing a tangible presence and its own message. Sparking word of mouth and organic interest. The current is in danger of sweeping it away in favour of a multitude of other releases that are competing for our attention. A frightfully tough market to conquer, not helped by the lack of details and the bottling strength. However, I wish them well despite being unable to wholeheartedly grace this with a higher score.
Score: 4/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM