SMWS #3 Bowmore 17yo | 56.8% ABV

Eye Of The Storm

Are we slowly forgetting the 80s?

Have we? Many readers weren’t even born back in the decade of Thatcher, strikes, Alton Towers, Dallas and much more besides. Clearly, they missed out. A wonderful dynamic of whisky is the ability to time travel without a Tardis. Yet this Scotch Malt Whisky Society Bowmore doesn’t herald from that decade or even century, so what’s going on?

The majority of Scotch Malt Whisky Society release names are disposable trash for the virtual bin. Fun? Clever marketing? Pointless? You decide, but the 80s theme here touches upon when the Bowmore distillery hit a rocky patch, a really badly broken, bone-crunching, almost impossible to navigate patch of form. The distillate developed – let’s say – an aromatic quality that divided opinion. That’s putting it very politely and the decade still prompts cursing from those fortunate/unfortunate to have tasted the wares.

The problem ensued for much longer than it should have and the legacy are releases from this period that are memorable for the wrong reasons. Things became so bad that the then owners of Bowmore looked to flex their legal muscles on anyone that spoke of this newfound character in a negative fashion. It seems a ridiculous stance now, in our social media age, that a company would even consider such a course of action. Things were different back then when distilleries controlled the agenda and methods of communication.

The culprit is widely believed to be the condensers the owners installed at the distillery. Oddly enough, they also made the same change at Glen Garioch during the 80s as well. Both distilleries suffered from issues with their distillate thereafter. These things can happen in Scotch yet remain extremely rare. It’s why when a faithful piece of production equipment comes to the end of its lifespan, it’s replaced like for like. The stills for instance are carbon copies with each dent inserted to ensure the spirit isn’t affected. For the most part, due diligence and attention to detail come through. Very rarely do you hear of stills having to be removed shortly after installation, but it does explain the concern when a distillery such as Clynelish receives a massive refurbishment and the distillate takes time to return.

The question in my mind has always been: “Why did it take so long to find and rectify the problem?” The maturing whisky in the warehouses must have been of a perfumed nature that someone, somewhere, in the production process before bottling knew something was up. Arguably there’s a story to be told. Possibly it was spotted early and corrected, or there were internal debates about the new aromatic distillate that was very different to what went before. For a whisky enthusiast and a veteran of 80s Bowmore the bottom line is that it took too long to be corrected.

In saying all of this, you could look at the 80s theme from another perspective. As the SMWS was founded in 1983, when casks were more enjoyable and membership was organic and wholesome. Whisky was the central theme of the SMWS experience. Today, it is a very different beast. This is a commercial whisky experience like no other. Capitalism at its finest. Where the truth is smudged and things become disingenuous in the pursuit of selling bottles and memberships. Clearly, the SMWS have forgotten their roots and what made them so attractive to many.

Review

SMWS 3.333 Bowmore 268 bottles, 56.8% ABV
Sold out

This Bowmore was distilled on 16th February 2004 and bottled at 17 years of age from 2nd fill ex-bourbon hogshead. 268 bottles were produced at 56.8% and the original price was £122. Most releases from the Society starting with a 3 don’t hang around for long. Cask strength Bowmore is a valuable commodity and post-2000, the distillate is so bloody good that we’re in danger of forgetting the 90s never mind the 80s. My thanks to Haddyscouser for the sample.

Nose

 Fruity initially, quite pleasant and memories of sandy beaches. A good dose of salt, salted caramel more so now. Perfume notes in the hedgerow that doesn’t come to fruition thankfully. Big fluffy vanilla marshmallows, honey heather and maple-cured bacon. Fruit loaf, an old boat rag, new PVC and vanilla icing. Adding water reveals toffee wafer, orange oil and white cap mushrooms.

Palate

Wood bitterness upfront, old peppercorns and a touch uncouth in places. Will give this some time aside. A rugged peat for Bowmore, a touch of lavender followed by vanilla, earthiness, charred sailing rope and a pleasantly salty finish. Water reveals smoked caramel and an ashy nature.

The Dregs

If only the palate matched the gorgeous nose, we’d be looking at something higher. Sadly, the aromatic promise was curtailed quickly and even a splash of water couldn’t save the experience.

The palate experience is akin to chewing an old salty sailing rope from my teenage years. It is amazing what you’ll put into your mouth while sailing on a leech – not the influencer variety - infested loch and trying to avoid obstacles and capsizing. While there was coastal and some peat, the overall feeling is one that this has gone a touch too far with the oak cask taking a firmer grip. Still, there is plenty to enjoy and it’s better than several of the recent Scotch Malt Whisky Society 3’s. A bottle many will miss once it’s gone.

Are we in danger of forgetting the 80s? Not at all. People are waking up to the fact that the independent bottling scene is vibrant and doesn’t require an annual membership or a plush bar to push average product. Explore and engage. As for our Bowmore story? It’s amazing just how enduring a series of bad or ropey (sorry) whiskies can wave itself into whisky legacy and the minds of enthusiasts. We’ll always remember the 80s and not just for Last Christmas, or another Manic Monday.

Score: 7/10

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