Mars Tsunuki 2022
Japanese Single Malt | 50% ABV
The Duality of Japanese Whisky
In the early 2000s, Japanese whisky producers, in the space of a few years, went from “the brink of extinction” to “we can’t make enough of the stuff”.
When a certain self-proclaimed whisky evangelist awarded Yoichi single malt 93 points via his ‘Bible’ - about the same time when it was elected whisky of the year by Whisky Magazine - I don’t think that anyone could have foreseen the scale of the changes this would eventually put in motion.
The Karuizawa legend would be born, Sofia Coppola would shoot the only advert I willingly watch with pleasure, and for a while the world could not get enough Japanese whisky. So much so in fact that they increased the blending of Scottish, Canadian or Irish whisky with it to artificially extend their stocks, with everything masked under a supposedly hand-drawn Kanji label that probably can be translated as “please continue buying our cheap juice”.
A huge wave of new distilleries soon opened in the land of the Rising Sun, placing legendary Japanese values of meticulousness in the service of making the best possible liquid. Chichibu of course, but also Kanosuke, Shizuoka or indeed, Mars.
At the same time, the two big players that are Suntory and Nikka solidified their position on the market as reputable producers of desirable whisky, with brands such as Yoichi, Yamazaki and Hibiki, routinely putting out different expressions and blends of their prestigious distilleries, covering the entire price spectrum. Soon, a category that was only boasting a few brands in the early 2000s would be invading whisky shelves around the world with countless brands - of variable quality.
At work, still to this day, there’s not a week that goes by without someone asking to buy a Japanese whisky, either as a present or - more rarely I admit - for their own enjoyment. Just like everything Japanese these days, it seems Japanese whisky is still very high in the regular punter’s mind.
Yet, as enthusiasts we don’t seem to be talking about it all that much. In fact, more than 1000 reviews have been written on this website, and I could only count 6 of them focused on Japanese whisky. The scores range from 3/10 to 7/10, averaging at 5,33/10. We don’t do decimals here, but that tells us that, while it isn’t that bad, it’s no particular feat either.
There is one single reason why most of us don’t buy Japanese whisky, and you already know it. Sorry for flogging a very dead horse, but the prices are nothing short of insane. Take Chichibu for example. Widely regarded as the best active distillery in the country. I have been able to try a few, and they are good to excellent whiskies. But if you want a bottle, either fork out the minimum 150-200€ at retail or spend even more on secondary. There are countless young distilleries making brilliant, true Japanese whisky other than Chichibu, but these end up at 150€ on the shelves. On virtual shelves that is, because there aren’t a lot of brick-and-mortar shopkeepers who dare to gamble their cash on stocking them.
That is the duality of Japanese whisky; the general public holds it in high regard, yet they’re buying world blended whiskies rather than true Japanese malt, and the enthusiast-oriented bottlings are such bad value for the money that no one talks about them. When I was in Glasgow last November, I spent eight days surrounded by like-minded, whisky obsessed people. There wasn’t one mention of Japanese whisky during the week, not one. There were a few discussions about Bourbon, Irish, French whisky and even Cognac and Calvados, but none about Japanese whisky.
I think this is sad because, as stated previously, some are definitely worth tasting and in fact I’ve started to notice steps in the right direction. Nikka, as well as Togouchi (which produces the eponymous brand at the Sakurao distillery) have slightly lowered their RRPs here in the land of the croissant. That’s probably just a reaction to a slowing market, but it’s a decision a lot of Scotch whisky producers don’t yet have the courage to make. And to be clear, those whiskies are still a touch too expensive compared to Scotch counterparts of the same specs, but they do taste great.
Still, I would like to encourage you to try some Japanese whisky, but don’t pay the inflated prices for it. Instead, do like me and be sneaky at auction. The Chichibus are always going to be expensive, but some of the lesser known and consequently lesser-hyped distilleries can go for much less than retail. I scored this Tsunuki edition single malt from Mars in a recent auction.
Review
Mars Tsunuki, 2022 Edition, ex-bourbon, 35,800 bottles, non-chill filtered, 50% ABV
130-140€ (£112-120) retail, 65€ (£56) paid at auction, all inclusive
I paid 65€ for this bottle of whisky, shipping included. Nearly 40% shaved off the French price of 99€. The RRP was lowered by La Maison Du Whisky because it wasn’t selling at 120€. So what we’ve got here, is a bottle of whisky from a quality oriented producer, bottled at 50%, non chill filtered, and maybe, possibly, probably natural colour. For 65€, I think I scored a pretty good deal.
Let’s talk a little about the Tsunuki distillery. It is one of two distilleries owned by Mars along with Shinsu - the most recent one, with production having begun in 2016. Located in the Kuraokuyama mountains in Kagoshima, it gets its pure water from the mountains. That’s basically all the information I could get without going to the official website and butchering it with a Google translate-shaped chainsaw. What I learned by doing said butchering is that the climate there is pretty hot and blah-blah-blah heritage blah-blah-blah values.
Oh well, the proof is in the pudding.
Nose
Fresh, tart orchard fruits. Maybe some Japanese plum (Ume) or just the power of suggestion. Crisp pilsner, touch of hops. Quite bready. Dried lemon zest and distant unripe banana.
With water: A tad more creamy cask derived aromas, mainly in the form of vanilla milkshake.
Palate
Surprisingly chewy, though it remains fresh and youthful. It’s a bit jagged, which would not be a problem, bar for the fact that there isn’t much else happening. A bit of toffee roundness; the rest is a bit blurry and definitely quiet.
With water: maybe a bit more spice, but again, quite imprecise and not massively different anyway.
The Dregs
Well, I’m glad I didn’t pay too much for this liquid. I must caveat my notes by telling you that they come from the first five drams out of the bottle. I do think there is a chance that it will open up with oxygen contact in the future. That said, I also think that a whisky has to be tasty at the first dram.
There is nothing ‘wrong’ with it, no faults, other than an evident lack of character. Which is weird, because I’ve enjoyed other releases from Mars in the past. This one is just a bit… bland. It feels like it’s a social dram, something that, despite the 50%, is not going to distract you from a conversation. It even had me questioning if I was in full tasting form, but after checking whiskybase for other people’s tasting notes, they seem to echo mine, though some people do clearly enjoy it a bit more than me.
On another subject, I’d love to have more information available on Tsunuki distillery, and by extension, other Japanese whiskies, on labels or at least on websites in general. For enthusiasts to connect with the liquid it has to be good, but having the possibility to get geeky with it surely helps as well.
I somehow can’t help but think that Japanese whisky as a whole has missed the mark, but I can’t be right as they surely are profitable. I’m worried though, that in the coming times of slowing consumption and limited spending, they are not going to be able to cut through the ocean of quality Scotch whisky that will inevitably be offered at a better price point. I don’t think that a lot of you readers will make it your priority to buy Japanese malt in the future if the offerings stay the same. Let’s hope for the sake of variety and flavour exploration that I’m wrong.
What should we listen to this time? Well, I figured I could share a contemplative song by the legendary band Yes, in the form of awaken, which came out in 1977. I recently listened to quite a bit of Yes due to a great video by Drumeo on Youtube, featuring legendary drummer Kenny Aronoff.
Score: 5/10
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