Distillery Only Bottling | 51.8% ABV

A year of appreciation

The phrase “Whiskey brings people together” is heard quite a bit. It may be oft said, but the adage is true, plain and simple.

As noted in my brief Dramface bio and sprinkled here and there in prior reviews, I am a middle-aged American. As an American, at least one of my generation, I was not raised with single or blended malts as accessible and ubiquitous drinks. don’t believe I had an anomalous alcohol learning curve as an American youth/young man, as I started with beer and then was steered at times toward vodka, tequila, and rum. In the northeast where I’m from, the only bourbons available were basic Wild Turkey 101 and Jack Daniels, and these (along with other liquors) were used during high school and college for inebriation instead of flavor. Frankly, I have no recollection of any other bourbons. So, through the first four decades of my life, single malts and blended malts were unknown.

Despite a tour of the Glenfiddich distillery in 1999, when I had not yet developed a taste for the uisge beatha, and a slap-happy, laughter-filled evening ten years later in the town square of Sainte-Mère-Église with a duty-free bottle of Bell’s, I did not start my whiskey journey until I was in my fifties. The journey began in late 2019, shortly before COVID-19 introduced itself to the world. I was first drawn in by taste. I started reading and researching; whiskey curiosity took hold. That led to sampling different expressions and more investigation. My whiskey sampling and tasting journey has been a wonderful experience over the past three years, and it did not take long for me to start appreciating the ephemeral but very real accompanying magic whiskey brings in camaraderie, in creating bridges between/among strangers, in weaving a bit of harmony.

The year 2022 was a reminder of that Aqvavitae magic. I started my whiskey club shortly after the new year. The group is eclectic: it is drawn from four different states on the eastern coast of the US and boasts a range of professions, from doctor, police officer, and clergy to realtor, retiree, and dentist. We operate, largely, via Zoom due to the geographic challenges. I worried initially about the cohesion of the group, as I had been in a few other groups (one professional and one social) through COVID in which, over the course of a year or more of Zoom meetings, the people were cordial but remained stiff. With my whiskey folk, however, these worries quickly evaporated. Within two meetings, I saw the whiskey spell woven among us. Folks were laughing, talking about all things great and small, making arrangements to help one another with various things. By our third meeting, someone from the outside looking in would have sworn the fourteen of us had been life-long friends.

I talked with one of the club members – who is new to whiskey, but has found a home with just about anything Ardbeg – who wanted to thank me for introducing him to the world of whiskey. Here is a second story of the magic of malt. At Thanksgiving, he attended a family gathering in which his long-estranged brother attended. Evidently, they had been akin to oil and water for decades, all stemming from a few less-than-pleasant interactions many moons ago. At the gathering, my buddy was talking to another family member about our whiskey club. His brother overheard him. After a while, the brother managed to mention that he had overheard the whiskey club chat. A conversation began – this had not happened in decades. After a bit, my buddy showed him his newly started collection of three whiskey bottles (an Ardbeg Uigeadail, a Lagavulin 8, and an Ardbeg Wee Beastie). The brother broke into laughter as he explained that he is never without a bottle of Wee Beastie. To the astonishment of the other family present, who were all-too aware of the prior brothers’ estrangement, I was told that they chatted for hours over a few pours of Ardbeg. They have been regularly chatting ever since. In addition to other items, they almost always talk about whiskey, and even share new and different whiskies. My buddy, like me, credits whiskey with this reconciliation.

The final example (though there are many others from 2022) introduces the bottle that I will share in this piece. I noted in a prior review that my wife and I traveled to Scotland in October. She is every bit the whiskey enthusiast that I am, which is a blessing (want another dram?) and a curse (how did we wind up with this many bottles?). We made our way to Islay, and were particularly eager for our 10:30 am Warehouse No. 9 tasting experience at Bunnahabhain. With Bruichladdich a close second, Bunnahabhain is our favorite single malt.

We drove from near Port Ellen up the A846 to Bowmore, turned toward Port Askaig, and then shortly before the port turned left onto the very narrow and mostly paved and hilly road north. First, after a few miles, we passed Ardnahoe and then, after another mile or more, we reached Bunnahabhain, beautifully nestled between the coast and hills overlooking the Isle of Jura.

Excited and eager, we were early and went into the new visitor’s center. We were not the only eager ones: all 10 of us had arrived early for this tasting experience. As it turned out, the other eight consisted of two pals from Campbeltown, a couple from England, and two couples from Germany. I noticed one of the Campbeltown men had a jacket with the Kilkerran logo. I immediately went over to him and insisted he find me a job – preferably as a taster – over at Glengyle distillery. He laughed and said that his wife worked there, not he. His name was Craig. We laughed and shared photos, and my wife and I chatted with the Campbeltown folk for twenty minutes. Somehow, at the same time, I introduced myself to one of the German participants. His name was Stefan, and after some more banter and chatting, my wife and I chatted with the remaining folk.

By the end of the tour, contact information had been exchanged. I am sure that none of that warm and open connection would have been made if the group of 10 of us were there for a work function or a historical tour of a battlefield. Only with whiskey do these connections come about as naturally and as easily. I am unbelievably grateful to whiskey as an elixir among people.

We all chatted for almost an hour after the tour before we went our separate ways. To commemorate the day, my wife and I went into the visitor’s center to purchase a few bottles of what we had sampled. One of those bottles, the 2004 Mòine Pedro Ximenez Cask Finish Whisky, brings back the memories of that day each time I pull it out of the whiskey cabinet.

I am ever grateful for whiskey having introduced me to so many wonderful people and provided me with so many interactions. Let me introduce you to the 2004 Mòine as a great way to close out my 2022.

Review

Bunnahabhain 2004 Mòine PX finish, distillery exclusive, 51.8% ABV
£160 from the distillery

(I seem to recall, however, that the bottle was £130 in October when my wife and I were at the distillery…ouch)

Nose

A most wonderful harmony of sweet peat, raisins, plums, and a hint of spice. Apple butter and pears. A hint of cocoa. Unlike any peated expression I have come across to date. Hints of raw honey and pipe tobacco fill out the sensory picture.

Palate

Transformational. I often say that a truly wonderful whiskey will make time stop for a few moments. Where was I…? Oh yeah, the palate. The sweet peat smoke is there but seemingly waits in the background as it first introduces the fruits to your tongue. Plums, dates, sherry soaked pears, and a hint of cocoa fade into a bit of spice as the sweet peat smoke comes to wrap the flavors in a savory (but not too heavy) blanket. There is a mellow mocha note that shines through. The finish brings a bit of tingle to the tongue with a warmth. The flavors slowly ebb into the blanket of sweet peat which is also fading into a relatively long finish. Utterly delicious.

The Dregs

As Drummond recently noted in his review of Ardnamurchan, there is something uniquely special that comes with a bottle procured after having had a great distillery experience and sampled that very whiskey on location. Spot on. As I taste the liquid and close my eyes, I can almost transport myself back to my time in Warehouse No. 9.

Bunnahabhain was already a favorite of mine because of its 12- and 18-year-old expressions. Their house style distillate with its sherry cask finish is fantastic. It is one of the very few bottles that we always have in the cabinet (that and a Classic Laddie). Before my trip to the distillery, however, I had never tasted peated Bunnahabhain expressions. I had seen Mòine and Toiteach bottles and read reviews, but I was always a bit skeptical how such a lovely Bunnahabhain distillate would marry with peat smoke. I thought either the peat would be too distant or it would overwhelm what is, to me, the most delicious of Scottish single malts.

How wrong could I have been?

The master blenders at Bunnahabhain are true to their “master” moniker. Here, they have mastered the art of a most harmonious balance of sweet and savory peat smoke, the underlying Bunnhabhain distillate, and the accent of a Pedro Ximénez cask finish. It does make time stop.

I fully understand and appreciate that this bottle is available only at the distillery or online through Bunnahabhain’s website. If you can make the trek to the distillery, do so. It is not easily accessible, but so wonderfully worth it. I also appreciate the second hurdle: the hit on the wallet (the bottle is presently listed for £160 online). Yes, a substantial sum. For my part, I had saved for our trip to Bunnahabhain, and I wasn’t coming home empty-handed. Otherwise, yes, I acknowledge that this is not necessarily a budget-friendly bottle. However, as I had sampled it from the cask and knew what I was getting… knowing the magic that would be in the bottle, paying that sum did not make me wince.

Magical stuff.

Score: 9/10 OS

I would be remiss if I did not take a few moments to thank everyone who reads Dramface, is a Dramface member, and/or who takes the time to comment. I learn quite a bit from reading the articles, reviews, and comments. I am humbled to be even a small part of Dramface, and am appreciative of everyone in the Dramface community. I look forward to a wonderful 2023 with all of you great whiskey enthusiasts – regardless where you are on your whiskey journeys. And, while this review may not appear until January, I want to relay my wish that you all have and enjoy very happy holidays and a happy New Year. I raise a glass to you all. Cheers.

[Lovely sentiment - we squeezed it in for ya, Og. – Wmc.]

Calder’s Review

Bunnahabhain 2004 Mòine PX finish, distillery exclusive, 51.8% ABV
£160 from the distillery

Nose

A gentle opening of steeped Lapsang Souchong and lightly toasted pink peppercorns. Digging deeper and we enter a cold smokehouse, cuts of cold smoked salmon and trout, encrusted in coarse black pepper. Over time there is runny maple syrup, Medjool dates and a freshly frothed Flat White. A harmony of smoky aromatics and sweetness.

Palate

Starting sweet with salted almond praline and crushed golden raisins, swiftly moving into the savoury course of coffee rub grilled salmon, garnished with redcurrants and dates. Yet again, the perfect tango of sweet sherry and savoury, smoky, fishy Moine. A third act twist now as we pivot to a mouthwatering finish composed of coastal spray and citrus, perhaps a blood orange or grapefruit margarita. A thoroughly addictive and moreish palate.

The Dregs

The folks at Bunnahabhain have seemingly struck gold with this pattern of Moine bottlings. A majority maturation in ex-bourbon, followed by some variable finish in a highly discerning wine cask. I thought they nailed it with the Feis Isle 2021 Moine Bordeaux and Feis Isle 2022 Moine Tokaji, both relatively rare wood types for whisky maturation. However, even with the more common PX-wood here, we’ve struck gold yet again.

This spirit takes to a range of fruity or sweet cask profiles very well, whilst still keeping it’s smoked fish DNA. Avoiding full maturation also helps in this department, the wine/sherry never really takes over, rather providing strong bass support to the Moine’s guitar. In the past few years I’ve fallen out of favour with experimental wood types or really deviating from ex-bourbon or ex-oloroso sherry, but bottles like this spark my curiosity to get out of my comfort zone.

PX is definitely lower on the list for my preference of sherry-wood, but reigned in as a finish, with an independent peated distillate that refuses to become a support act, results in harmonious waves of sweet and savoury. The java heavy notes are very prominent to me with this bottling, I could just as well describe it as a coffee rub brisket as I could with a tiramisu, what else could I ask for as a whisky omnivore?

Score: 9/10 OS

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