2021 Release | 46% ABV

It’s Easy to Draw Comparisons

When it comes to single malt official bottle (O.B.) releases, there have always been neglected distilleries. In relatively modern times, consider Whyte & Mackay’s Tamnavulin, Diageo’s Teaninich,  Chivas' handling of Glenallachie or Glenmorangie seemingly denying the existence of the ill-fitting problem child in Glen Moray.

In the case of the last two of these examples, it has taken new ownership to breathe life into the brands and set them free on their own path. This has been a good thing. Like Tamdhu and Glengoyne, Glenturret was once owned by Edrington but its stablemates were Highland Park and The Macallan and so it rarely enjoyed much spotlight. Much like Glenrothes, who played a game of ownership hokey-cokey for a while, it was always under-represented and best enjoyed as an independent. In 2002 it was anointed the ‘The Famous Grouse Experience’ and enjoyed high footfall as a one-stop ‘we’ve done the whisky thing’ tourist pit-stop. Glenturret was available as a malt with both sherry cask and peated expressions sold, but pallid presentation and promotion of the Grouse brand over the malt left it looking like an afterthought.

Shame, really. The distillery is capable of amazing malt and a walk around will remind you how tiny and compact it really is, producing about the same per annum as Springbank with, up until very recently, probably the tiniest (hand-raked) mash tun you’ll ever have seen. Even with a grouse-themed weathervane there was always the feeling of a traditional cottage style distillery. It’s a nice spot.

Luxury Placement

Then in 2019 news broke on a deal which saw Glenturret sold to Lalique Group and billionaire philanthropist, outspoken liberal and environmental campaigner Hansjörg Wyss.

No one knew what to make of it or what to expect, but it smacked of a fast-track ‘luxury goods placement” strategy. We braced ourselves at the prospect of another malt chasing the Macallan model of it’s-not-about-the-liquid-it’s-about-the-brand premiumisation plan. You know, if you don’t know what a carton of milk actually costs and take confidence or self-esteem from labels then this could be your whisky. This isn't meant to sound so judgemental, it’s just pure jealousy. 

Anyway, it unfolded as we expected. A new pretentious “Lalique-inspired” decanter-style range was launched in 2020 with eye-watering prices playing on a pedigree that seemed to talk more about the age of the distillery rather than the quality of the spirit. Nothing shouts “this whisky isn’t for you” more than an ostentatious bottle and a detached-from-reality price tag.

However, the range was well thought-out and for those willing to see past the departure-lounge bling, it did have some curious clues to the bottle contents. The ABV in the majority of the range had been amped up, there was much talk of natural colour and use of non-chill filtration. Bob Dalgarno was at the helm and it was clear these were his creations. Perhaps there was something to explore here?

There’s more good news at the distillery too, with smart new VIP areas, casual as well as Michelin star dining, an impressive new bar area and a fresh lick of branding to banish all signs of wildfowl. The cottage feel remains, it’s just a little fresher now, and while they’ve gone a little more boutiquey, it’s still cosy and friendly thanks to the happy, welcoming staff and pragmatism about where they’ve come from.  While they still talk about being Scotland’s oldest distillery, which is fine, they don’t seem to mourn the conspicuously missing bird from the weathervane.

But, an entry-level price of £50 for the NAS Triple Wood (originally 43%, now 44%), £50 for a 10yo Peated (50%) and a bewildering £65 for a 12yo which, for context, was higher than Macallan’s 12yo Sherry Oak at the time of launch, well, this all made everything a difficult buy for me. Even if it did have a higher ABV of 46%. 

However, some chatter started. “Tried the new ‘Turrets?” I was asked. Upon replying “Nope” I was greeted with everything from “It’s damn good” to “more balanced than an Edradour”, “richer than a Springer”, “better than a Mac by any metric” and “Why not?!”

“More expensive than them all!” I soothed myself.

Then a sample or two arrived from friends at home and abroad. I poured with nonchalance, genuinely without any expectation. Happily, and a little annoyingly, I was forced to rethink the entire thing. None more so than for this ‘expensive’ 12yo release.

Now, the 2020 was labelled their “Maiden Release”, so kudos for that, I like the inclusion of a batch signifier and release vintages work. There was much talk of “European Oak-driven” and, while we don’t know that actual cask makeup, it certainly fits the profile. To the point it was very reminiscent of the best of old-school sherry-matured Highland whisky; bold, fruity and velvety with a dry and tannic spice that was never dominating, but vocal and part of a harmony that meant I struggled to find a core range comparison at the price point. In fact, I was in the realm of Glendronachs at twice the price point before I found whiskies that could compete and come out on top. It made me realise one of the potential handicaps of an age-statement. This was no ordinary 12 year old. I’d go as far to say, for a £65 core-range bottle, at time of release, it was unique. 

I honestlyI think Glenturret’s 2020’s Maiden Release will go on to be a classic and be much sought after. So, how about its 2021 sequel? Time for more of that geeky comparison.

Review

Glenturret 12yo 2021 Release, 46% ABV
£65 everywhere.

Nose

Immediately you know your nose is over a richly sherried pour, with baking spices, dried citrus and orange oils, even a little dark honey and beeswax hinting at treated leather and an oaky, oily, wood polish. No peat smoke or char at all, but things are much sweeter than expected. There’s a butterscotch and caramel lick and a creamy, melted ice-cream vanilla. Time in the glass brings pastry and biscuit-y notes, maybe an apple pie with cinnamon. Good start.

Palate

The expectation of a drying and velvety arrival isn’t met. This is a different prospect from the Maiden. This is creamier, rounder and sweeter. Everything is in balance, nothing is cloying or challenging, but the sense of that “old-school” European oak has been tempered. This is a more modern sherry style. Think closer to Arran’s newer 18yo than Glendronach’s Allardice, think more people-pleasing and less distracting. In saying this, I think I mean a little less interesting too. Still, with a medium-long finish of gentle spice, fudgey dates and creamy toffee leaves a decadent moreishness. Adding water loosens things up a little and amplifies wood spices and fruit, but at the expense of some density and impact, I prefer this one neat and, served so, this is still a cracking whisky in its own right. 

The Dregs

We’re compelled to compare, it isn’t being lazy or missing the point. We want to know, simply, is one better than the other? Is Glenturret better under Lalique? Is this 2021 better than the Maiden? Are either of them better than their sherry-cask competitors at £65? Perhaps, the optimist in us clings to the idea that change doesn’t always mean worse; that some things do improve. I personally believe that, despite the price hikes, Glenturret today is a far more interesting and better-placed prospect post-relaunch. Yes, some of the prices smart a little and yes, some of the ‘core’ range is so expensive and exclusive I’ll never taste them, yet, some are attainable. I can’t campaign for quality without accepting it needs to be paid for. It was interesting that, at launch, the 12yo in 2021 was £5 cheaper than in 2020.

So, judging this as a £60 bottle it’s bang on the money, and still so at today’s average online price of around £64. On scanning and comparing their website notes they do indeed mention use of American oak in this 2021 release, which fits with the experience. While this isn’t quite up to 2020’s Maiden Release, it’s still very good. Many, including myself, are concerned that we’ll witness the Tamdhus, Glendronachs and Glengoynes attempt a meander down the luxury goods aisle calling after their ol’ buddy Macallan, and if Glenturret is to attempt to follow, let’s grab what we can while we can. For comparison’s sake. Alternatively, find another official £65 malt that can go toe-to-toe and I’ll listen, because I think these 12yo releases of this Highlander are not only better without the bird, I think they’re a match for 15-year plus releases from their peers.

Score: 7/10

Tried these? Share your thoughts in the comments below. WMc.

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