10yo 2021, 2013 Islay Barley & PAC:01 2011 | 50% & 56.1% ABV

A hallowed distillery churning out recognisable yet different malts

For relatively new whisky drinkers, Bruichladdich has been highlighted as a whisky to chase when the opportunity arises, perhaps owing to the release of popular documentaries of late. Is Bruichladdich, and its many peated and unpeated products, worth the chase? If you are like me, I had to indulge in the hunt to find out for myself.

While the story of Bruichladdich has been covered by our own Dougie Crystal, I was first exposed to this distillery through recent television efforts. For me, these films include the Scotch: A Golden Dream and The Water of Life films, both of which focus on Bruichladdich and its dauntless master distiller at the time, Jim McEwan.

While Jim has handed the reins over to current master distiller Adam Hannett, who oversaw all three releases reviewed here, one could not watch these films and not immediately open a browser tab or grab the car keys and search your local whisky shop for a Bruichladdich product. These stories made it near impossible for me to not become attached to this revered and celebrated distillery - despite never trying a drop.

The relatively tall stills (for Islay that is) at Bruichladdich promote more reflux and refinement of the new-make spirit. This design makes it even harder to produce smoky and oily distillates and the Port Charlotte and Octomore product lines at Bruichladdich are a testament to the distillation team when coaxing the heavier oil-laden peated components out of the pot still and into the lyne arm before condensing. I’ll save a discussion on phenols, ppm peat levels, and all other sorts of singularly focussed, number-based arguments for another day but suffice to say Port Charlotte uses heavily peated malted barley similar to many other Islay distilleries. 

So why did I need three bottles of Port Charlotte sitting on my shelf when on paper they should all be similar?

My local whisky watering holes often didn’t stock many Bruichladdich products, only keeping the well-regarded unpeated Classic Laddie on the shelves. So given the respected stature of the distillery and the relative inability to purchase most Bruichladdich products in my region, owing to their popularity and diminishing distribution to my region, I jumped at the opportunity to purchase them when they were available, despite my lack of familiarity with them. Simplest definition of whisky hunting FOMO there is but with a distinct lack of avenues to try anything Bruichladdich, purchasing was my only option.

I must mention I did luck out on the purchase of the 2013 Islay Barley release. Needing a drive to kill some time with my seven month old daughter, I went on a whisky hunt without the intention of buying anything. It was just to see what was on the shelves at some local stores. That’s what I told myself, but when opportunity arose to wander through whisky aisles with lots of spare time, I had to capitalise. After a purposeful 30 minute drive to a store I knew had a surprising stock of wildly varying whiskies, I began studying their tall and narrow shelves, gazing up at some interesting independent bottler releases. Despite a 25 year old Springbank that was collecting dust on the top shelf, my wallet was remaining firmly entrenched in my pocket. My shelves were full back home and nothing was tempting me with an insatiable pull to purchase. I could feel a pat on my back for resisting the temptation of purchasing another whisky adventure. 

Noticing I was spending a while looking at some unique bottles, the young and inexperienced chap working the till left his station to offer assistance. Several minutes passed of whisky-related banter, and noticing my keen interest in some bottles of Millstone on the shelf, he stated that Millstone was one of his favourite Scotches. I politely corrected him on Scotch naming requirements and the fact malt whisky can be made anywhere, the exuberant employee mentioned they had recently received a shipment of something called “is-lay barley”.

Knowing what he meant, and with my daughter’s car seat now beginning to yank my shoulder from its socket, I followed him to the back where a stack of 2013 Port Charlotte Islay Barley bottles were bathed in sunlight streaming through the window. If there was ever a sign that it was meant to be, this was it. But knowing the inflated prices these can sometimes command, and having two bottles of Port Charlotte at home, I was prepared to move along. However, the price was $85 and I’m not one to turn down an opportunity, so the 2013 Islay Barley release came home with me. In objective fairness, the regular price for this whisky is about $105 and has been reviewed as such.

It’s worth mentioning that I love the pouring lip at the top of the stout Port Charlotte bottles. The dark green glass and raised lettering on the back of the bottle harken back to yesteryear, but the little lip gives you a tidy spot to tuck your glass into while pouring and it eliminates those pesky dribbles that inevitably happen. Such little things can make such a difference in the experience of a whisky.

Dramfacers will have to make do with my pieced together information for each of these releases as the Bruichladdich website was down for updates while this review was written. Apologies in advance if a slight technical error may have slipped in. Without further ado, let’s dive into these three unique Port Charlotte’s.

Review 1/3

Port Charlotte 2013 Islay Barley, 8yo, 50% ABV,
700 mL, CA$105 (£69)

The 2013 Islay Barley was created by using barley grown from seven Islay farmers and harvested in 2012, before being malted and distilled in 2013. The first seven years were spent slumbering in ex-American oak before a 25% parcel was transferred to first-fill red wine casks sourced from an undisclosed vineyard in the Pessac-Léognan region in France for the remaining year of maturation.

Nose

BBQ sauce, smoked ribs over a charcoal fire, sticky glaze sauce. After the initial sweet BBQ hit to your olfactories, dry peat burning accompanied by a whiff of coastal air from a nearby coastline rounds out the experience.

Palate

Sweet and sticky glaze on smoked ribs. Well rounded and earthy peat, somewhere between dry peat and wet smouldering peat, complemented by a healthy dose of syrupy sugars. A hint of maritime salty character is detected on the back end of the sip, sitting atop the wave of sweet and smoky flavours that continue well after your initial taste. Only a mild peppery tingle registers throughout the experience despite the whisky’s age and ABV. 

Score: 7/10 BB

Review 2/3

Port Charlotte 10yo, 50% ABV,
750 mL, CA$85 (£56)

The 10 Year expression was first released in 2018 and matured in a combination of first-fill American oak, second-fill American oak, and second-fill French wine casks. The presumably larger inclusion of second-fill casks compared to the 2013 Islay Barley and PAC:01 likely promoted the lighter colour and less cask-driven flavours that can be found in the 10 year release.

Nose

The smell of a salt water mist tickling your nostrils while a pile of dry beach wood is burning nearby. This is a classic peated whisky. The smell of ripe peaches, lemon zest, clean dry peat, maritime air, and a hint of background ginger and light butterscotch intermingle and leap out the glass. 

It reminds me of squeezing lemons on shrimp grilling over charcoal and smelling the wafts of smoky citrus notes that rise up, only to be blown away by salty air.

Palate

Clean dry peat follows from the nose. It’s light and citrusy with a bright sweetness of barley sugar and icing sugar that’s rare in the peated whisky landscape. Ginger and toffee appear after successive sips all the while anchored by clean peat smoke and a light lemon effervescence. Of the three bottles of Port Charlotte here, the 10 year old has the shortest and brightest finish, with a zesty, salty, icing sugar smokiness that gently fades with time. 

Score 7/10 BB

Review 3/3

Port Charlotte PAC:01, 2011, 8yo, 56.1% ABV,
700 mL, CA$150 (£100)

This 8 year old Port Charlotte was aged for six years in ex-bourbon and the remaining two years were spent in Bordeaux red wine French oak casks from Pauillac region of the Gironde estuary, north of Bordeaux, France. Some internet sleuthing suggests the alphabetical descriptors (ie. PAC) of these special releases refers to the region where the wine barrels were obtained or a barrel combination. To my estimation, there have been MC (Marsala), PAC (Pauillac), SC (Sauterne), OLC (vin doux naturel, Syrah, oloroso sherry), and MRC (Bordeaux left bank) releases.

Nose

Red berries atop a heavy and dense billowing smoke from a damp fire. Under the voluminous wet peat smoke layers is a dark butterscotch and vanilla syrupy floor that provides a sweetness to the nose. An alcoholic tingle tickles your nostrils, something that wasn’t present in the other expressions but may be expected due to the higher ABV.

Palate

An initial fleeting taste of red berries before they’re buried by smouldering peat smoke. Tinges of barley sugar appear at various stages of enjoyment only to be enveloped in peat smoke once again. Then follows a cacophony of strong bitter notes forming a barely sweetened dark chocolate torte with a red berry compote and caramel sauce drizzle with a dark roast espresso as your dessert digestif. At all times, a moderate peppery tingle keeps your attention.

The finish lasts significantly longer than either of the other Port Charlottes and is not as easy or traditionally pleasant. Lingering dark coffee ground bitterness and a wet campfire smoke remain minutes after taking your last sip. I enjoy dark chocolate and espresso so these flavours are not wholly unpleasant to my taste preferences but they are surprising considering the red wine cask usage.

Score 7/10 BB

The Dregs

I set out to write this review in advance of whittling down my collection by passing at least one of these bottles to friends. I didn’t succeed despite sorely needing the shelf space. They’re all unique malts that I enjoy for one reason or another. Going back and forth between these different expressions is enlightening. The variations in flavour and profiles across all three when tasted side by side are incredible, tangible, and somewhat frightening. If subtle tweaks in maturation can lead to these noticeable changes within the same distillery, the same product line, the same peat content and the same era of distillation and bottling, then what is the flavour potential of all malt whiskies produced around the globe? It’s a good time to be a whisky adventurist.

Could I tell the 2013 Islay Barley used barley grown by farmers on the wind-lashed island? In a blind taste test, I wouldn’t have been able to put my finger on it, but it doesn’t matter. The whisky is very good and is not representative of its age. Just like the PAC:01 expression, I kept coming back to sip this beautifully balanced whisky, albeit for different motivations. The sweet, salty, sticky, smoky, meaty and zesty back-and-forth kept me intrigued and held my focus while savouring this velvety and viscous whisky. Perhaps too focussed as this bottle is nearing the third-full mark and no replacements are available on local shelves.

The 10 year old is a stunning dram with all the elements playing together in unison and creating an experience greater than the sum of its parts and reminds me how delicate and nuanced a peated whisky can be. It’s a light, refreshing, zesty, peated maritime whisky swimming amid heavily casked or powerful Islay competitors. Tasted side-by-side in a blind test, the 10 year old and 2013 Islay Barley could be easily mistaken as from different distilleries. It’s a very different whisky and experience than the 2013 Islay Barley and not just a two-year-older expression to suck more money out of consumers. Truly a standout. If an orchestra were formed to describe the 10 Year in musical form, then Hans Zimmer would surely be at the helm. 

I will mention something keeps bringing me back the PAC:01 but I can’t put my finger on it. It’s dark, sumptuous, and somewhat bitter. The nose is stellar and offers something for everyone while the taste may polarise enthusiasts. It’s a bottle I would reach past most days and could be compared in some aspects to a Laphroaig Lore. Like the Lore on my shelf, it’s a bottle that would be hard to share because of its unique flavours unless your dramming compatriots were peat junkies looking for their next adventure. I kept having to rinse and reset my palate after sipping the PAC:01 and tasting the other Port Charlottes immediately after, especially the 10 year old. It was strong and sticky, masking some nuances of the others. Perhaps my subconscious is tickling my frontal cortex, reminding me how much I paid for it and influencing my logic circuits to keep it around. I’m not sure even as I’m wrapping up this review. Only time will tell if it stays on Broddy’s shelves in the short-term but I am quite sure it won’t be replaced when finished owing to the value proposition. 

This leads me into the scores. The PAC:01 is objectively a score of 6 or even 6.5 from the unique experience and quality of the whisky and flavours, but the price relegates it to a 5.5 or even slightly lower. Seeing as we are not one to split hairs here at Dramface, I will be doing the honorary rounding down to a 5. From my side-by-side tasting here, the 2013 Islay Barley gets you 80-90% of the experience of the PAC:01, for 60-70% of the price. You might rank PAC:01 higher based on your taste preferences or local price however that’s where it’s landing for me against these two other exceptional Port Charlottes. The 10 year old and 2013 Islay Barley are sublime in their own unique way and should be experienced by any peat fans at some point in their whisky adventure.

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. BB

Other opinions on this:

10yo
Whiskybase
Ralfy
The Whiskey Tribe

Islay Barley
Whiskybase

PAC:01
Whiskybase

Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.