Decadent Drinks German Malt | 57.1% ABV

Making the best of things

Thankfully, the island mentality that has blighted the UK in recent years hasn’t been applied to whisky. I always find it telling that we’re told the UK voted to leave the European Union when Scotland actually voted to remain.

The pandemic may have hidden the consequences of such a vote for too long, but it’s clear the desire of many to be Rule Britannia comes at any cost.

Now we’re seeing the implications of our foolhardiness and I hope it prompts some regret from those that thought closing off our society for future generations was a good move. The decision was greeted with general amazement from whisky friends across the continent and it’s affected their ability to visit the UK, purchase whisky from our shores and engage in sample swapping, with the old trick of ‘beard oil’ not proving as effective as it once was.

Fortunately, the Whisky Sponge hasn’t let such barriers inhibit his search for whisky and we must try to move on and make the best of things. Scotland is a vibrant and plentiful landscape, full of maturing casks at seemingly ever ridiculous prices. England has its moments, as does Northern Ireland and then there is European whisky. Much maligned for those that can remember beyond the days of Ardbeg annual editions, themes of swamp monsters and sending whiskies into orbit. The labelling on these Whisky Sponge releases has a space theme due to the lengths the team has reached to overcome the Brexit layer.

It would be fair to say that European whisky wasn’t coming from a strong foundation but times have changed and remarkably so. Nowadays you can point to any country within the Euro-bloc and there should be a good quality native offering to hand. A great state of affairs and I’d encourage you to try beyond the shores of Britannia, because it doesn’t rule whisky any more and that’s a very good thing indeed.

Casting a net over the continent, Whisky Sponge retrieved this duo of casks from Saillt Mór which translates as large salt works due to a former nearby building. It’s also known as Destillerie Ralf Hauer which is located in Bad Dürkheim. Where exactly? Think of this as Western Germany, midway between Frankfurt and Stuttgart, or across the Channel for others with a more limited view.

The official website makes much of the rugged terrain that could easily be Scotland with its dense forests and landscape that helps shape its produce including the salty air. Distilling roots on the site go back to 1602, although the modern incarnation we see today has foundations in 2009 when a licence was granted. Traditionally this is the point of the review where an influencer on Instagram or whisky consultant would regurgitate the official description or refer to the Malt Whisky Yearbook. I’m not going to do that and instead point you towards the Whisky-distilleries page which has plenty of images and detail.

We have the opportunity to compare and contrast these whiskies that have enjoyed the same maturation and treatment, but have very different malt components. Edition 73a has utilised peated malt as its core cereal requirement and 73b features German malt that’s been smoked with beechwood. I’m presuming that 73a uses non-German malt. 

Both enjoy some symmetry being distilled in 2014 and matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. We can nose and taste these two pronounced differences to the grain component of the recipe in the final product. We’re told how important this natural resource is in whisky – sometimes in a rather stern doctrine manner that leaves a lingering repulsive aftertaste and residue beyond any mere dram. Others subscribe to the belief that distillation is a destructive process and from this carnage, new life is born in the form of new make spirit. Believe what you like, as the end result is in the glass and that’s what truly matters. 

At times there is too much pontification, dissection and rebuffing around whisky. I know because I’ve partaken in it previously, whereas now I believe those that want to debate all the intricacies are best left to their own manifestos. Much like Velvet Underground fans that debate the latest unearthed track from late 60s session in mono. Let’s enjoy the result, as fascinating as the process of creation can be at times. Often, we’re debating the ins and outs more than the final result and there are many whiskies that seem born on a process with no end validation. 

Let’s hope that the whisky is far from bad and having received both as samples from Angus, we’re in a position to bring you some German whisky critique which could be a first on Dramface.

Review A

Whisky Sponge Edition 73a, Saillt Mòr German Malt Whisky, 57.1% ABV, 230 bottles
£250 (for both bottles)

Nose

A floral, heather-like lightness combined with a fabric aspect such as tweed or an old hessian sack. A pleasing level of oiliness, orange pips and honey that probably taps into the heather aspect again. The more I nose this, the more citrus notes come through with time in the glass, and salt. Oat biscuits bring weight, cracked walnut shells and a light sprinkling of black pepper with smoke that works well with the obvious vanilla creaminess. Well balanced and assured at 8 years with a touch of mint chocolate when I return to nose the empty glass.

Palate

Much sweeter than I anticipated and the peat matches this well. That sweetness develops into fruit sugars and dare I scribble in my journal, Turkish Delight? It’s not prominent or even soapy to some, but it steps in midway and lingers. Quite distinctive in a way, not a Scotch note we’re traditionally used to experiencing. Lip-smashingly tangy on the finish as well, very moreish with brown sugar, salt and toffee.

Score: 7/10 DM

Review B

Whisky Sponge Edition 73b, Saillt Mòr German Malt Whisky, 57.1% ABV, 230 bottles

£250 (for both bottles)

Nose

Less body than 73a initially and more wood notes and a touch more spirit reminiscent of white paint drying. Tonka beans and a delicate layer of saltiness, follow a handful of bashed garden pebbles. Smouldering hay bales, bacon crisps and smoked apple. Stewed black tea, crushed white grapes and moss. 

Palate

Smokier than its relation and you can taste the beechwood influence and a touch of dryness in parts. It’s less defined and complex, becoming more robust and direct instead. Roasted ham, honey and saltier than expected.

Score: 5/10 DM

The Dregs

This comes as a duo package, I’d snap up the 73a on its own in an instant. It is a lovely thing, showcasing balance and a fair degree of style at such a young age. The 73b is harder sell and perhaps much suggestive of a younger malt with plenty of smokiness running through its veins. On its own I’d pass, but as these come as a combo (priced at £250 which isn’t to be sniffed at), you instead have the ability to compare and contrast. After all, how many bottles from this distillery do you have on your drinking shelf?  

As with most Decadent Drinks releases, it’s the price that will prompt many to pause and consider a purchase. And this takes us back to Brexit where importing casks from Germany will come at an expense and if there’s one thing we’re very much used to now, it’s paying more for the things we love and also rely upon daily. I’m fortunate to have had this opportunity and broadened my horizons and knowledge once again. After all, the best thing is to get out there and explore the whisky landscape when you can.

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM

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