Five Single Cask Releases August 2022 | Cask Strength

Whisky without borders

Goodbye to August, a month of scorching heat, water restrictions and sewage dumped at every opportunity. Cheerio to picturesque moments with bins overflowing on the streets, public transportation making fleeting appearances and small businesses closing. The reality of everyday bills rising faster than the mistruths being expelled by two Prime Minister candidates, who seemed detached from reality more than their predecessor. Farewell to Boris and the blinkered; here’s to September and a new dawn. 

Except that August also brought us the latest outturn from Watt Whisky, which in timely Campbeltown fashion, arrives in September and this is the way. The samples actually landed on my doorstep the same day as Liz Truss was announced as our next Prime Minister. Needless to say, I am in need of a stiff drink and this latest outturn comprises five whiskies from across Scotland and not a mention of Carlisle or anything beyond our borders. 

Whisky shouldn’t be divisive or used to score points that we’ve seen in social media recently, with some gender based opportunistic deployment. Whisky is for everyone, period. That’s always been its charm; people from different walks of life can unite over a dram and find common ground even if language is a barrier.

We’ll tackle these Watt whiskies in alphabetical order, discussing their qualities and which one Truss would pick out as her favourite. After all, during her victory parade, she did make a visit to the BenRiach distillery – we can only hope that she appreciates a drop of scotch. I’m guessing in advance that her favourite might be Glen Spey? A rather grey and nondescript distillery, devoid of personality that’s been around for a while without receiving much love or attention. A distillery that represents an endless quest for some enthusiasts, who are in search of that memorable Glen Spey moment. A dram that manages to rise above the forgettable nature of many whiskies that have stepped out from its warehouses. Hopefully, Liz can unite us all with a pour and the promise of listening to those with a different opinion.

On paper, I’m pleased to see several unfashionable names lined up for this 8th Watt outturn – can it really be that many already? Note, you can catch our prior Watt Whisky coverage for more background insight into this relatively new bottler and it saves me from repeating myself, which is a pet hate. I’d recommend checking out Mark and Kate talking you through this batch of releases, not only for their insight but the additional insight. Who would have thought sherry casks of 10yo Craigellachie were on the market for £25,000 to £30,000? These are mad times indeed.

I’ll forever sing the praises of Ardmore that consistently punches above its weight. Blair Athol is an adaptable single malt and greatly overlooked, whereas Craigellachie is a charismatic distillate that offers poise and confidence even at a young age. Glen Spey, Liz’s favourite, is the dark horse of this outturn, particularly as it is finished in an ex-Islay cask, which is a trick that Ardmore has deployed occasionally to good effect. Last but by no means not least, verging from the outer northern boundaries of the United Kingdom and distillation, we have a mysterious representative from Orkney. Except that we all know the distillery, so it isn’t a great mystery, but we cannot speak its name other than to usher Lowland Spark as a clue…

Review 1/5

Ardmore 12yo, from a barrel, 57.1% ABV
£80 mostly UK availability

Nose

A very lightly peated Ardmore with some delicate coastal aromas of sea shells and salt. Green bananas, vanilla and white chocolate. Porcelain, fudge, ripe limes, green mango and a damp wool jumper.

Palate

Spent matchsticks, burnt rope and saltiness. Needless to say, the peat is coming through more so now. Charred remains and a Highlander vibe with a robust deliver. Smoked lemons, kindling, grapefruit and melon.

Score 6/10

Review 2/5

Blair Athol 13yo, rested in a red wine barrique for 16 months, 56.7% ABV
£65 mostly UK availability

Nose

Candy skull crushers, apricots, red apples and rhubarb. Seville orange marmalade, wheat, honeycomb, peach stone and red grapes. Caramac underlines a touch of sweetness with caramel and a bourbon whiskey vibe in places.

Palate

More marmalade, apricot jam, honey glazed ham and shortbread. Porridge oats and a floral perfume-like aspect that takes me back to my nanna’s garden. It does benefit from a splash of water as the texture becomes more wholesome and intriguing. The flavours become more fluid and approachable with cereals and a homemade jammy quality.

Score 7/10

Review 3/5

Craigellachie 6yo, sherry butt, 58.1% ABV,
£55 mostly UK availability

Nose

Thankfully, not a sherry bomb. Instead, it provides the bedrock for the Craigellachie distillate to burst through. Brass rubbing, cranberries, pimiento and rust. Crepe paper, scuffed shoes, ginger snaps and sugary apples.

Palate

Baked plums, apricots and red liquorice. Esters in places along with strawberries, ginger loaf and clammy in places, so a touch of water is optional. Bashed red apples, a touch of cherry menthol and raspberry. Pretty enjoyable especially when you consider the age and price.

Score 7/10

Review 4/5

Glen Spey 14yo, finished in an ex-Islay hogshead for 14 months, 54.8% ABV,
£65 mostly UK availability

Nose

I feel this is the least defined of the selection. Bacon bits, embers and honey glazed ham give this a rugged quality that is distinctly un-Glen Spey. Time brings lighter qualities such as vanilla, lemon, honey and candle wax.

Palate

The Islay qualities come through more so now, scorched and peaty; a burning book fuelled fire. Quite nutty in places, walnut oil and sugar cubes. It’s growing on me with each sip, some fruitiness is coming through with pears and apples. Warming and charming in a way but retaining a degree of coastal sweetness. Chocolate brownie on the finish.

Score 6/10

Review 5/5

Orkney 9yo, small batch – 2 hogsheads married together in their original casks for 2 months, 57.1% ABV,
£58 mostly UK availability

Nose

Very creamy, saline and a salty residue. Pineapple cubes, lime peel and vanilla polish. Cottage cheese, crackers, coconut and freshly baked shortbread.

Palate

Grapefruit, faintly peated and lime juice. Fresh, zingy and approachable. Immediately recognisable as a young exponent of a Viking persuasion. Salted caramel, orange pips, green apples and plenty of smoked haddock on the finish.

Score: 6/10

The Dregs

Another pleasing Watt outturn matching value with variety; proving it can still be done. In an era of heavily finished whiskies and excessive pricing, there is something reassuring about facing a set of whiskies such as these, knowing that new releases don’t necessarily need to cost the earth or rely on tea-bagging with another cask type. 

Yes, we do have rested versus finished. The terminologies used by the industry are varied and somewhat undefined. In my opinion, which is worth very little I know, I’d take anything up to two years to be a finish as after that you’re talking about double maturation. That’s just an opinion built up by years of personal experience. But what about rested? That’s interesting as it suggests an Airbnb approach i.e., a short stay, or perhaps a tired finishing cask? For the consumer, what matters is the end result and that the whole rigmarole of moving the whisky into another cask was worth the effort, and in each case here, it does pay off. 

A rather solid Ardmore with a feisty edge kicked off our journey and benefited from being taken down a notch prior to bottling. In doing so, Ardmore underlines that it’s the Caol Ila of the mainland when it comes to reliability. If you’re a fan of this distillery then it’ll tick the box with ease, or if you’re looking for a peated pour without having to pay the excessive prices of Islay, then you’ll find some satisfaction in this bottling.

I’ve not had a wine finished (or rested) Blair Athol before or at least that I can remember. What I can tell you is that it works well in this regard. If the cask had kept a hold of the contents for much longer, the balance that we can sense here would have been twisted. Mark is well known for not liking wine casks in general, so it takes something to pull one out to release. I was intrigued by the prospect. I’m certainly not disappointed and if you do pick this up; a splash of water pays dividends. 

I’d be interested in more details about the Craigellachie sherry butt as it seems like a very good cask. Not forceful or limited in perspective that some seasoned casks are. It underpins the experience without ever grabbing the steering wheel, so likely a refill? Leaving us with something to enjoy. Don’t pay too much attention to the age because if it tastes good then it’s ready to bottle and this Craigellachie certainly is.

Oh, Glen Liz, sorry Glen Spey. A distillery that’s all about reflux, which is what I expect to experience occasionally during her leadership. Some things are hard to swallow in life and quite possibly Glen Spey might come into that bracket for some whisky enthusiasts. The distillery is only one of a few in Scotland to boast the presence of a ghost, with Deanston also springing to mind. A grey spectre of a former soldier stationed at the distillery who met a tragic end; I’ll leave you to draw a comparison of such an image to Liz’s victory speech.

Yet such a dilemma isn’t entirely the fault of Glen Spey as it remains a blending component, and by Diageo standards, a small-scale producer. We’re not seeing much of it, and even then, its best might be kept for its owners. That’s understandable and this particular Watt Whisky release was probably a rather benign offering before it departed for the Islay cask. Through this metamorphosis we have a unique experience that delivers some intrigue and substance. A real punt, wild card, shot in the dark etc. Whisky should be fun and for everyone, so let’s have more Glen Spey in our lives.   

As for our secret Orkney, it is another distillate that is fantastically reliable. A consistent option that’s worth you time when bottled independently – whereas officially things seem more variable. I guess, all the effort must go into the runes and pointy helmets. Presentation is one thing but let’s not forget we’re here for the whisky (or at least I hope so) and the liquid must stand on its own merits.

If there is one release in this outturn that sums up the Watt Whisky ethos of whisky is for drinking, then the Orkney is it. Affordable and offering enough character for that price. The small batch vatting has ensured a healthy number of bottles should you wish to roll the dice on this independent bottler and my pick here would be the Craigellachie.

Thanks to The Whisky Shop Dufftown for the bottle images

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