Knockdhu 2006 Whisky Sponge Edition No.63
Decadent Drinks| 55% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Far from bogging
Raw And Extreme
When the Whisky Sponge dropped an impressive Edinburgh tasting line-up earlier this year, the one dram that stood out to me was this heavily peated Knockdhu. Particularly, when Angus described it as a raw and extreme style. Parenting duties prevented me from attending and least we forget that this was a line-up that included a Springbank, a ’96 Ben Nevis and a well-aged Glen Keith. A numerical delight of a line-up, as we shake off the pandemic shackles and embrace the new normal, or whatever it is.
I have great deal of respect for Knockdhu distillery, otherwise more widely known as anCnoc and self-described as a rather curious whisky. Yes, the name and branding are as curious as well, but there’s no denying the overlooked nature of the whole operation. It’s a distillery that exists in the shadows of the mainstream. InterBev have brought a new zing and freshness to the portfolio with new investment and ideas. From a marvellous tour I had several years ago with the distillery manager, Gordon Bruce, they are very much left to get on with things. And the tour really did leave a hugely positive impression with our small group.
Even today, it ranks as one of the most informative and engaging of the countless tours I’ve taken and sometimes endured. The visit to Knockdhu was a delight, even though it lacks the slick facilities and polished exhibits that we associate with many distilleries nowadays. Instead, Gordon allowed us to roam into every corner and literally inside the mash tun as well. From disused rooms with darkened corners and the air thick with dust, to equipment that had served its purpose and sought a new life. This was an organic tour with an engaging host who knew pretty much everything there was to know and some more besides.
It is memories such as these that cut some slack with distilleries as prices creep upwards. From energy to raw materials, everything is becoming more expensive, so you would expect to see this impact on the final asking price. That’s the reality of the situation and even if distilleries started using exclusively Scottish farming produce, the outcome would be the same. As an industry, I don’t think Scotch talks about or acknowledges the international nature of the raw materials they utilise. There’s no shame in seeking the best grain if it takes you east of Scotland. After all, as my ongoing research of the Invernessian distillery, Glen Mhor shows, it was using at least 39% foreign barley from its inception in 1894.
For such a bountiful market that we’re seeing currently, with a multitude of whisky releases from independent bottlers, Knockdhu isn’t a common sighting. That’s unfortunate as this modest producer is prized in this household with a Cadenhead’s 10yo bottling being a particular delight. Since 2017, they’ve only bottled Knockdhu 5 further times, highlighting the lack of prominence in the independent sphere from one of Scotland’s largest bottlers.
“It sits comfortably in the most fashionable bars of Stockholm, Tokyo, or Cape Town. But while the product looks very twenty- first century, the production has changed little since the distillery opened in October 1894. The only piece of modern electronic equipment that goes anywhere near the process is a big blue calculator in the still room. The spirit is still condensed in traditional worm tubs resisted the temptation to equip the site with modern condensers.”
Adding to the intrigue with this release is the fact that it is heavily peated. A couple of years ago, we witnessed an explosion in peated expressions of anCnoc. Partially fuelled by the need to tap into the burgeoning peat market (like so many other distilleries) but also to showcase what the distillery once did and could still do. As you can see from the list on the official website, the distillery offers more varieties than Heinz does beans. Each expression comes with a name highlighting a prior tool involved in the association of peat and whisky. Some expressions were more limited than others, but overall, I felt there was a good standard achieved throughout those that I spent time with.
If we’re going to play a little detective, we know that this Sponge release is heavily peated. Depending on your taste buds, I’d suggest that heavily peated isn’t applied until you’re well into the parts per million (ppm) countdown. Starting at number 40ppm, seems an appropriate place to apply the terminology, although it should be noted as far as I’m aware, there isn’t a set criteria as to what constitutes lightly peated versus heavily peated. You pay your money and you make your choice. Through the power of elimination that leaves us with the Peatheart, which was first bottled in 2017. Now, I don’t know how long Knockdhu have been distilling heavily peated spirit (I’ll need to take another tour for that insight), or if they tried a few runs of experiments prior to nailing the final recipe. Looking at Whiskybase it’s clear that very little of the 2006 vintage has reached any bottlers, so we have a wee coup in some respects and I’m eager to jump right in.
Review
2006 Knockdhu, cask strength this was over 67%, so its been reduced to a more modest 55% ABV
£145 from Decadent Drinks
Nose
Dried seaweed, saline, peanut oil, over ripe apples and kindling. Candy floss, talcum powder, crème fraiche and juicy fruit chewing gum. Sea salt and coastal notes? Where is this peat from? Honey and a very sweet undercurrent as well. Quite enchanting, refreshing and layering. Pond water, eucalyptus, pine cones, fennel and fenugreek seeds.
Palate
Quite a staunch palate with the peat as expected, black peppercorns and more honey. Robust in places but not a total overload. Chicken stock? Sooty. Cauliflower. Mulch. Quite an array of oddities but refreshingly so. Burnt out Scalextric wheels, mace, blackcurrants, aniseed and star anise.
The Dregs
I’m liking this, as this heavily peated Knockdhu is daring to the different. There’s a prominent vegetative aspect to the whisky. It’s forcing you into corners that you don’t dare to tread, and in doing so, earns your respect. I expect midway through a bottle of this you’d be totally hypnotised by its charms and pushing you into these unfamiliar directions. That appeals to me greatly, as so many peated – no, even just whiskies – are playing a safe and predictable game. This Knockdhu is demanding; come and have a go if you think you’re hard enough. Touché.
Score: 7/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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