Kilchoman Saligo Bay
Official Bottling 2021 | 46% ABV
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
If this whisky was a movie, it would likely be Fight Club, as no one seems to talk about it.
A Simple Oversight?
It may be an unpopular opinion for some north of the border, but the success of Islay whisky in recent times owes a fair bit of credit to the English. Well, a couple English folk at least. For starters, it was Mark Reynier’s entrepreneuring spirit that brought Bruichladdich back from the dead on the shores of Loch Indaal, while just a few miles away, it was another Englishman who at the turn of the millennium, was planning to build Islay’s first new distillery since Malt Mill in 1908.
When Anthony Wills and his family started their Kilchoman adventure in 2005, a lot of people probably thought it was an unwise move, as the industry was just starting to recover from the whisky loch of the 1980’s. And with more than 100 operational distilleries in Scotland, the idea of building yet another – on a pretty remote farm on an island no less – seemed like something only the boldest or the most foolish would dare to endeavour. After all, the only other new distillery back then was Arran and the jury was still very much out there on whether or not that would prove to be a success.
Despite there already being seven Islay distilleries doing pretty well for themselves, no-one seemed interested or bold enough to make a long-term investment in a new distillery. However, Kilchoman proved the critics wrong and became a success when they released their first single malt in 2009… occasional setbacks like an exploding boiler, pipe bursts or setting fire to their kiln notwithstanding.
We are now spoiled for choice when it comes to whisky, and with more than 30 new distilleries seeing the light of day since the start of the 21st century, it’s fair to say Scotch whisky is thriving like it never has before. In hindsight, it seems obvious to applaud Kilchoman for their pioneering spirit, and from today’s point of view, it’s easy to take its success for granted. But it doesn’t hurt to bear in mind that at more than one occasion it was touch and go, and Kilchoman’s success story could just as easily have turned into a tale of failure and misery as their founders literally risked everything they had to make it work. It might be a bridge too far to credit them for today’s unprecedented whisky boom, but they most certainly did help pave the way.
“Kilchoman distillery was established by Anthony Wills in 2005, the first distillery to be built on Islay for 125 years. Its location is at Rockside Farm on the west coast of Islay beside Machir Bay, with its spectacular sandy beach and rocky inlets. It is an area steeped in history, as evidenced by a 14th-century cross in the church graveyard nearby.”
Review
NAS (said to be a 5 yo), 46% ABV, ex-bourbon casks, natural colour, un-chill filtered
£45-£50 Travel Retail and elsewhere
Over the years, Kilchoman’s core expressions Machir Bay, Loch Gorm, Sanaig and the annual 100% Islay release have become staple malts for many Islay aficionados, while the diehard Kilchoman fans revel in the prospect of Kilchoman’s special releases. But what about this Saligo Bay? Officially, it’s a travel retail release, yet it’s widely available through many online retailers. Despite its seemingly widespread availability, it seems to have fallen through the cracks. What struck me most, however, is it doesn’t even get a mention on the Kilchoman website. Why is that, I wonder? Why so little attention and so little love for this particular expression? Is it a mere oversight, or is this really a bit like that weird and peculiar uncle no one is comfortable talking about at the family Christmas table?
Nose
Quintessential Islay: a mixture of lemony citrus notes, phenolic peat and sooty ash. A bit of time in the glass and it becomes more layered and more interesting. I picked up decaying autumn leaves with a dirty, muddy, riverbank element to it, grainy with cereal notes and that citrus touch develops into lemon bonbons.
Palate
Very crisp and very clean arrival. The ashy-peaty notes jump to the front of the queue now, and underneath I found a soft oak note, a hint of hard mature cheese and notes of cereal and dough, countered by those fresh lemons. Mouthfeel is a bit light, but remember this is a five year old youngster from (refill?) bourbon casks, but it suits the dry, slightly delicate body of this whisky just fine. On the pleasantly lingering finish it becomes increasingly dry with sooty ash.
The Dregs
I like this one. It’s pleasant, and while it’s got enough going on to be interesting and enjoyable, all in all it remains fairly straightforward. I’m not exactly sure, however, where and how it fits in compared to not only Kilchoman, but other Islay whiskies as well. There’s nothing ‘weird uncle’ about this – it reminds me a bit of young Ardbeg or equally young Caol Ila – but I can see why it might struggle to claim its own spot in the wide spectrum of Islay whiskies. But let’s not dwell on the fact this could perhaps do with just a bit more personality and identity, because it’s still a very decent and enjoyable whisky.
Score: 6/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. EA
Thanks to The Whisky Exchange for the photograph.
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