Tamdhu 18yo 125th Anniversary
2022 Edition| 46.8% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Tamdhu deliver an engaging sherry-focused dram - but it’s simply too expensive
Let’s Talk About Price
Because we have to. There’s no denying that on paper this Tamdhu 18 year old is a little pricey and quite a jump up from the Tamdhu 15 year old which comes in at around £75. An ideal place to start is to take in the official press release, which is available via our news channel and this gives us the official line on this new release. Read it completely, digested? Okay, let’s move on and debate this new launch, unlike some commentators who won’t comment on price. After all, it is personal to us all isn’t it? So, are tasting notes and that doesn’t seem to stop those being produced.
Now, there’s no disputing the fact that everything is rising in price, we have to be adults and recognise this. In fact, I’d actually struggle to think of something that is becoming cheaper currently. Maybe Prince Andrew memorabilia, definitely an influencer’s soul in what is a competitive market? These are exceptions in a rising tide of increased outgoings and inflation. Unless you’re extremely fortunate, your lifestyle is going to have to change to accommodate the mere essentials that you take for granted. I’ve already stated that value is the main driver of 2022. Distilleries that have relied (and become accustomed to) frivolous spending, might have to rethink their strategies. I’m being cannier with what money I do have and this will be symptomatic of many also reading this.
At £139.99, the Tamdhu 18 year old has sailed from the pockets of many of us and that’s a risky strategy from Ian Macleod Distillers. Yes, there’s a degree of Rosebank tax involved – an expensive outlay that is no doubt devouring cash reserves with the emphasis on long-term potential. The press release doesn’t dwell on the pricing and that’s an understandable, yet unfortunate decision. A little short-sighted and arguably not treating the consumer (an increasingly educated) market with the necessary respect.
The Tamdhu 18 year old is fully matured in sherry. So, this will come at a cost and we’ll gladly accept that premium full maturation over a finished or rested exponent. In theory, it means greater flavour and importantly, depth of character. And I’ve had some great Tamdhu’s over the years that adopt this practice and nothing else will do. There’s an element that sherry casks – the worthwhile ones – are increasingly scarce and therefore more expensive to source. We totally accept this fact. However, we see the tired old line the very best being trotted out and dusted down for its umpteenth sighting.
Every distillery uses the very best, which begs the question where does the average or subpar casks end up? We’re in 2022, enthusiasts are debating and investigating every facet of this liquid that unites us. A little more candidness would be appreciated. How refreshing would it be to see the line that yes, our sherry cask costs have gone up 30% in the last five years, we won’t sacrifice quality – immediately you’ve explained a factor of costing and turned a negative into a positive. A distillery and owner have to make a profit. The glens of Scotland are littered with remnants of distilleries that failed to achieve such a status. Raw materials will have gone up in price as well; we’re not expecting the release of an Excel spreadsheet, but context is everything.
At £139.99, the Tamdhu 18 has leapfrogged the classic Highland Park age statement of the same value. A whisky that for many years was the 18 to see and drink across bars in Scotland and beyond. The great all-rounder of Scotch; a high benchmark. For all the current madness, the Longrow and Springbank 18’s come in way below this price level, yet are missing at retail. Even the much-disgruntled Balblair fanbase can feel sympathy with Tamdhu fans, but their own 18yo still comes cheaper. The big Speyside beasts of Glenfiddich and Glenlivet are also miles behind thanks to their efficiencies of scale and endowed musculature. The only 18 that surpasses Tamdhu is the distillery you rarely see opened and is mainly for investors. More reasoning behind the pricing and transparency would be appreciated and applauded. Is this a forward thinking placing of where producers see 18 year olds and similar age statements being in the next five years? A potential rival might be the Glendronach 18, which has risen in price and with a much-rumoured rebranding from Brown-Forman on the cards, could be set to increase in price once again.
“In 1896, a siding was opened to serve Tamdhu distillery; a public station, known as Dalbeallie, was opened there in 1899 to serve the district but this is better known as Knockando, the name adopted in 1905.”
Thing is, I do enjoy Tamdhu, and the distillery when it throws open its doors for the Speyside Festival. It is a wonderful experience that I wholeheartedly recommend. All the staff get involved and you can appreciate what a unique site it is. Full of history, not just from its original vision, but the modifications and equipment from the decades thereafter. It really is a Speyside gem and the whisky isn’t half bad either. Yet £139.99? That’s a jump and one that’s hard to swallow. And it seems some of you might not agree, as the whisky itself went live on the official Tamdhu website last week and has sold out. Yes, perhaps it wasn’t a great time to launch with all this media talk of increased energy costs etc. But I’m sure ambassadors and those who make these decisions will be watching the sales of this release with an equal degree of nervousness and interest. Whether the out of stock status is an indication of its limited nature (18,000 seems to be the figure), flippers moving in or general acceptance of the pricing strategy, only time will tell.
Bottled at 46.8%, this Tamdhu is a mixture of European and American oloroso casks. For all the talk about pricing and information, ultimately it comes down to the experience the whisky offers once poured. I’ve been faced with many a spectacular price point during my time writing about whisky. Many don’t make it or justify such a tag. Even so, there are a handful that can deliver and shoulder the burden of expectation which comes from such a figure. For Tamdhu, it’s time to find out.
Review
American and European sherry oak matured, 46.8% ABV
£139.99 widely available
Nose
Black shoe polish, red liquorice and an emphasis on darkness but not over eagerly in stating its ambition. Rubbed red apples, chilli flakes, light brown sugar and brown bread. Candied orange and rhubarb bring some tartness, honey-roasted nuts, rose petals. A touch of raspberry, vanilla caramel. Adding water brings out more zest and orange oil.
Palate
Very restrained, relaxed even. Calmly arrives, does its bit, becomes cloying and then leaves a lasting finish of figs and dark chocolate sponge cake. If you listen closely enough, you’ll pick out raisins. Autumnal foliage, dark brown sugar, aniseed balls, caffe latte and charcoal. A touch drying and bitter midway, which is fine in my book as it just adds to the experience. Plums, apricot, hessian cloth, worn leather binding and stewed black tea. A splash of water tones things down, you’ll still recognise it as a sherried whisky, without the nuances noted previously; just a hint of spent tobacco and figs.
Last Dregs
This is a style of sherried whisky you don’t see too much of nowadays. There’s a confident air and poise around it, letting those flavours step in, gracefully. Nothing brash or forced. In an age of seasoned and finished releases, this Tamdhu 18 takes us on a different path, but I don’t think it’s rich, decadent or has a memorable texture, which comes as a surprise as it is unchillfiltered.
If the pricing was more palatable, then I’d consider scoring this higher, however we’re in the realm of chopping off a point. That’s unfortunate, but after returning to the 15 year old, is there enough extra experience here in the passing of three years to demand almost double the price? The only answer is a very obvious no.
I like it, but I don’t love it. And at £139.99, I really need to feel the latter to compel me that it’s worth taking home. If this was around £100, I’d consider it highly recommended, yet I’m left a little bemused at the pricing strategy.
Score: 7/10
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
Good, but who is it for?
Wally’s Notes
The pondering of this Tamdhu eventually had me pouring a flight of five. I needed to understand it, not from the perspective of flavour, but value. If that doesn’t matter to you, would it be impolite of me to ask why you’re reading Dramface?
Anyway, after I tried this and took some notes, I also tried its (already pretty pricey) 15yo sibling. It did pretty well, and immediately gave itself up as a very capable, effortlessly classy and elegant Speyside malt whisky - in many ways reminiscent of what I remember Macallan to have been back when I cared. After I chased the flavours I got curious though. I poured an Arran 18 (£75), a Glenturret 12 2021 (£64) and also a Glenturret 12 2020 Maiden (£65). Very interesting - and time consuming when the profiles are so similar. I’ll summarise below, but don’t expect surprises.
Nose
It’s hard not to rely on the obvious oloroso-matured notes here, but it is what it is (although, in recognition of its venerable age, imagine all of the following notes delivered with a nice balance and togetherness). Oranges and sumptuous aromas of dried fruits layered with vanilla and a velvety but light touch of leather. A distant whiff of struck match, but you’d never cry sulphury. Extended time in the blender’s glass brings ginger cake and sticky toffee pudding, dark chilli chocolate (from a tin!) and a dry nutty note; like walnuts.
Palate
Oooh. Lightly spicy on arrival, cinnamon and allspice sweetened with brown sugars. It’s nicely put together. A medium body delivers the fruit in a more ripe state, the orange goes syrupy and the dried fruits become cooked and sweet. Some black pepper too. Returning after a drop or two of water turns the nuttiness from that dry walnut thing to a sweet hazelnut. Some creamy milk chocolate appears too. Adding more water helps define the aromas but breaks down that elegant and velvety body. At 46.8% that work has already been done.
The Dregs
Okay, here we have a good whisky. If it was south of £90 I’d give it a break, celebrate it even. I have a wee soft spot for Tamdhu and it’s something of a Phoenix. It probably deserves to be a 7/10. However, this release slipping well into three figures gives it too much work to do. The RRP of £139 has me recoiling and feeling a wee bit sad for a distillery who’s growth, under Ian MacLeaod, I have loved witnessing. In that posh neighbourhood it’s rendered unremarkable.
In my line up it did well, ahead of the Tamdhu 15yo sibling, the sweet-and-juicy but simpler Arran and also the Glenturret 2021, but not twice the price (or more!) ahead. I’m just using up more words to point out the obvious that all of these are half the price of this 18yo. It couldn’t go toe-to-toe with the Glenturret 2020 and come out victorious; it’s at best a tie and the 12yo Highlander would be my pick every time. Where the Tamdhu has elegance and balance the ‘turret brings bold grip and spicy European oak distinction. But that’s a subjective thing, the real problem here is much more objective.
If this becomes a success, all of the producers I’ve listed and many more will look on and ‘know’ that’s the new price point for an 18yo sherry-matured malt. Before you say “Well, Macallan can do it!” Macallan are forty years on and were already known as the “lawyer’s whisky” before they started; expensive but for a reason. These days it’s a brand which thrives where money talks, brand is king and ignorance is bliss. It won’t even matter that this is better whisky or better value, in luxury goods things aren’t rational. I worry the cry might be “Tam who?” I don’t believe this is priced so because of age, casks or scarcity. It is priced strategically. Perhaps they’re in it for the long haul and it starts here. But there’s a chasm between where they’ve come from and where they’re headed and crossing it will be fraught.
It’s a nice whisky that I’d happily have on the shelf, but not at this price, not in today’s competitive market. So, given its relatively unknown status in the prestige end of things coupled with the fact it’s priced well out of the average enthusiast’s reach, I’m left wondering, who is it actually for?
Score: 6/10
Our thanks to Ian Macleod Distillers for the bottle.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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