Mystery Orkneys
Two Orcadian Indy Releases | Thompson Bros. & North Star (Croucher & Co.)
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Thomson Bros ;really strong cask pick.
The Mystery of Orkney
Frequently nowadays I ask myself what’s in a name? As far as mysterious labels go, the onslaught of Orkney malts and others from across Scotland could be seen as a denial of the truth. A scrubbing of their origins if it wasn’t for some inventive labelling and hints thrown out by independent bottlers. The flexing of brand muscles to protect – in this case - a Viking heritage; which only forms a small part of the makeup of these islands.
Orkney is a remarkable place to visit if you are fortunate to have the opportunity. The Vikings left their impression and continue to do so on shelves across the world. But if you can visit Orkney, then you begin to understand that its culture, heritage and landscape is much more than rampaging warriors with big pointy swords. The landscape is far more historical and its roots go way back. From the sunken ships to the ancient stones and monuments, Orkney continues to mystify us all including leading historians and experts. Even the briefest of visits leaves a lasting imprint on the memory, with a heady assortment of rugged terrain, ancient monuments and friendly locals.
Such a physical and sensory experience will, unfortunately, remain out of reach for many and the nearest many will get to this archipelago is via a bottle.
Orkney has endured for eternity, to stand among the stones and ancient buildings only sparks more questions. It seems fitting we add to them in the whisky realm. Except there isn’t much of a mystery when it comes to which distillery these releases stem from. After all, an independent bottling of Scapa is rare and Stromness sadly closed its doors far too long ago.
Victorian era antique chic
Orkney fudge cheesecake aside, one of my weaknesses or guilty secrets (perhaps not so much now) is Highland Park. Officially, it has been tainted by some lacklustre releases and ridiculously branded bottlings – items created in marketing briefings rather than on the distillery floor. At all times it should be about the liquid. Everything else is eye candy and deception. And while some of us are old enough to remember when Highland Park was declared by late author and journalist Michael Jackson as the greatest all-rounder. Nowadays that crown hasn’t been seen on Orkney for some time.
Not all is lost as we have a small gathering of Orkney releases from a handful of my favourite Scottish independent bottlers. To the north, we have Thompson Brothers operating out of Dornoch, and in a more central location, the talents of North Star Spirits and Iain Croucher. I see these indies and others of their ilk as being very much like record labels: Relying on their instincts, sourcing good material, creating attractive packaging and bringing it to the masses at a reasonable price.
Both ‘labels’ are growing in popularity. Unlike a vinyl pressing, you cannot order more and continue into a second edition. Single casks and vattings are not infinite by nature; they are truly limited. That’s part of their appeal after all and their downfall. So, I’m often torn about bringing you my thoughts on something that has sold out. Yes, you may find it on the secondary market or stumble across a solitary bottling, but if you can take something from this article (other than how great Orkney fudge cheesecake is), it’s to follow these bottlers and watch out for their releases.
First up, from Dornoch, is a 2011 Orkney, bottled at 10 years of age. This cask produced 387 bottles at a robust 54%. They’ve bottled several Orkney’s during their existence and will continue to do so with the Viking taking centre stage. The all-rounder days may have departed, yet the echoes and glimmers of the past linger much like the landscape. The beauty of the single cask format is that it allows us to obtain even greater clarity, enhanced by a natural presentation.
Yet a word of caution, as I see neck pours and immediate reviews all the time. An opinion needs to be considered, debated internally and given time to form. This particular Orkney especially requires a patient approach. Initially, I likened it to being outdoors for most of the day and then stepping inside a dimly lit and smoky shack with a burner on full blast. The air was thick with smoke, earthiness and soot. Overwhelming at first, you could reel and feel smothered. Then, as the fill level reduced, my door of opportunity was opened and only then could I put my thoughts down.
Review #1
Thompson Bros. Orkney 2011 10yo 54% ABV
Nose
An earthy peat, toffee and Werther’s Originals. Some sweetness with spent oranges, smoke and hot chocolate. Crackers, Bere barley and shortbread. Musty, with olives and butterscotch. Brown onion skin, sour green sweets and a used eraser. Water unlocks honey, caramel and pears.
Palate
More peat, toffee and almond paste. Honey alongside a rugged coastal influence that takes me back to exploring Orkney. Black peppercorns, smoked bacon and oiliness. Used tea leaves, teacakes, fudge, charcoal and a sooty finish. I didn’t think water was beneficial.
The Dregs
I’m really pleased with this one. It reminds me what this distillery can still offer us once it's settled in the glass. There’s plenty to explore and enjoy. A really strong cask pick.
Score: 7/10
Review #2
Croucher & Co. Periodical (North Star Spirits) Orkney 12yo 50% ABV
Score: 6/10
Good stuff.
TL;DR
An excellent distillate when you take away all the Viking nonsense.
Nose
A gentle peat, wood spice, white fruits and deep down, red berries. Floral heather, chalk, Juicy Fruit chewing gum. A twist of lemon, grapes, vanilla, old ash, white pepper and some delicate citrus.
Palate
More peat that lingers right through into a long finish with black peppercorns and soot. Grilled apples, wood spice, pimento, liquorice and orange zest.
The Dregs
A fair transaction for the experience. Speculation is the contents are leftover from a recent Tyndrum Whisky exclusive. This is a rather tired puncheon cask, but it allows plenty of room for the distillery character to come through. An excellent distillate if you take away all the Viking nonsense.
Score: 6/10
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. DM
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