Abhainn Dearg X 10yo
Single Malt Scotch Whisky | 46% ABV
Score: 3/10
Disappointing.
TL;DR
Up-Island funk won’t give it to ya
Way Out West
Who knew that Lewis had a distillery?
Well, let's start from the beginning. Most whisky enthusiasts are aware that Harris has a distillery, and many know that Harris is effectively connected to Lewis. While some locals might dispute that statement, the connection is not easily noticeable when driving between the two islands.
The Isle of Harris Distillery has earned a stellar reputation for its gin over the years, and with the launch of their whisky - the Hearach, they are poised for more success as their stock matures. Additionally, their visitor centre, located beside the ferry terminal in Tarbert, is impressive and demonstrates the significant effort they've put into building their brand.
Now, circling back to the original question: who knew that Lewis had a distillery? To be honest, I didn't until my recent trip to Lewis and Harris. Unless you are an avid reader of the micro distillery section in the Malt Whisky Yearbook, it's likely that many people are unaware of it.
Abhainn Dearg, proudly claiming to be the first distillery in the Outer Hebrides for 200 years, might come as a surprise to many who might have thought Isle of Harris Distillers held that title. Pretty amazing as it’s now been around long enough to have a ten year old release; since 2018.
The contrast between the sleek, modern Isle of Harris Distillery and Abhainn Dearg is striking. Abhainn Dearg has a modest capacity of 20,000 litres, placing it between Dornoch Distillery and Daftmill in terms of output—both known for producing high-quality spirits despite their tiny scale.
The Abhainn Dearg distillery itself, tucked away behind a low wall, is a straightforward complex of single-story buildings that once served as a salmon hatchery. It's not a destination designed for tours, and its shop may or may not be open, as I discovered on my visit. It was not open, which is more my fault than theirs.
The name Abhainn Dearg (pronounced “AH-ven JARR-ack”) translates to red river in Gaelic and refers to a historical battle where locals triumphed over Viking invaders. With its rich history and distinction as the most westerly Scottish distillery, there is plenty of storytelling potential here.
Lewis is not the easiest place for people to get to, and even once on Lewis it is not a quick journey to Abhainn Dearg. Despite its low profile, limited publicity, small capacity, and unflashy facilities, Abhainn Dearg could very well create a unique and charming whisky experience. Time will tell whether this humble distillery will weave together these elements to produce something special.
Review
Abhainn Dearg, X ten year old, 46% ABV
£80 paid
Everything about this distillery should be a positive. Unfortunately, this liquid is letting things down. Despite a lack of detail on the bottle and the box, the website tells us that the distillery grows their own barley on the island; they harvest it themselves (with their own combine) and malt it at the distillery using their own peat supply. This is all great stuff which should be applauded. It is ticking box after box that whisky supporters want to see. Why not have this clearly represented on the bottle and carton?
Score: 3/10
Disappointing.
TL;DR
Up-Island funk won’t give it to ya
Nose
The nose hits you like the ubiquitous bloody nose - an intense salty, maritime blast like being dunked into the Atlantic waters near the distillery. There is a whiff of hydraulic oil and hints of acid and vinegar with some fruity flavours of lemon and pineapple and grass at the back.
Palate
The saltiness almost overpowers everything - mixed with seaweed. There is some fruit, which follows on from the salt, mainly citrus, but there is also a taste verging on baby sick! The fruit gives way to some pleasant dried spice, which hangs around for an average amount of time. If there is peat there, which it claims there is, then we may need Police Scotland to try and find it.
The taste is possibly better when you minimise nosing and definitely more acceptable with a couple of drops of water to soften it.
The Dregs
It is certainly unique. I want to like it. I’ve tried it a few times now. I’ve tried it straight and tried it with some water. Letting it breathe in the glass for half an hour together with adding some water does bring it into the category of acceptable. Without those two steps, for me, it could even be below a 3/10.
For a 10-year-old liquid that I want to like, I just cannot get into this and cannot recommend it at the price. If you like saltiness, then it may be for you.
I love a funk-ridden whisky, but this just ain’t up-island funk.
Score: 3/10
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