Ben Nevis Coire Leis

NAS Official Bottling | August 2021 | 46% ABV

Score: 4/10

Some promise.

TL;DR
Coire Leis; can’t quite face down the classic 10

 

Camper Van Stop At Ben Nevis Distillery

With holiday plans up in the air over the course of the last couple of years, a decision was taken last summer to get back out on the road and explore more of the stunning Scottish landscape… this time in the shape of our first ever camper van adventure.

The appeal of camper van life has hit the fast lane since the pandemic first grounded flights and caused countries to close their borders. Dreams have been sparked by glorious Instagram shots of luxurious vans parked in far-flung corners of the globe, with beautiful people enjoying coffee as they gaze out the back doors on to sun-drenched remote beaches complete with sparkling azure oceans, majestic snow-capped mountains, or fields blanketed in flowers in a riot of bright colours. The reality, of course, is slightly different.

In these #vanlife posts, no one mentions the sheer terror of emptying the toilet for the first time, the expletive-laden outbursts generated by the clattering carnage in the back caused by bumps on the road, arguing with the sat-nav - or that sinking feeling when you realise you forgot to pack a bottle of whisky or even a hip flask for the trip.

But I digress. The destination was Onich close to Fort William and that meant a journey on the A82 through the magnificent scenery of Glencoe – a drive that was made all the better thanks to flashes of rare Scottish sunshine hitting the slopes (and a timely pit-stop at The Green Welly Stop in Tyndrum for a bottle of Adelphi’s ‘dancing man’ blended whisky). As an aside, this turned out to be the perfect choice for a few days away. Good quality and great value at a shade over £20, it made for an ideal casual sipper both inside and outside of the van.

The only dampener on the trip was the dog got a bit travel sick, but a swift and stealthy change of trousers by the side of the road – me, not him – and we were off again.

With our campsite situated just 10 miles from the Ben Nevis distillery, it would have been folly not to have made a wee trip up the road. So after what I’ll simply call an “interesting” first night as camper van rookies, we set off a bit bleary-eyed and, it must be said, emotionally fragile, in the morning in the search for drams… and a proper toilet. One of those ones which boasts something called a door. And a flusher that actually works.

Before the trip, I’d heard through the grapevine (or shall we say ‘barley field’) that stock in the distillery shop had been somewhat lacking in the weeks prior to my arrival. Thankfully, when I rolled in, the wee bar/tasting room had fresh stock lining the shelves – and it was very fresh indeed, with Ben Nevis only days before unveiling their new-look labels.

 

official bottles of Ben Nevis have proved to be incredibly popular with flavour chasers for many years
— it hasn't changed today

I quite like what they’ve done in this department – in particular the shiny copper flourishes and clean label design, but the whisky-soaked purist in me still prefers the older, more traditional look. Sure, you can argue it was outdated, but it had a certain old-fashioned charm that I always thought suited the flavour profile of the ‘old’ 10 year old.

Now official bottles of Ben Nevis have proved to be incredibly popular with flavour chasers for many years, even though it was tricky to get hold of from time to time. Just when one batch appeared, it seemed to disappear in a puff of gentle peat smoke, so the wait – or frantic online search – began in earnest. Is this because Ben Nevis owners Nikka Whisky Distilling have been spiriting litres of the stuff away to Japan for use in blends, leaving us in Scotland with less to purchase? That’s what they say. But that’s perhaps a story (or rant) for another day.

 

 

Review

Ben Nevis Coire Leis, Official Bottling, 46% ABV
£40 general retail

 

While the new look 10 was in stock, I decided to take a punt on their brand new non-age statement Coire Leis blended malt. Why? Well I do tend to lean more towards bourbon matured whisky (which I’m pretty sure this is) and I really just wanted something different to tickle my tastebuds. I asked about the age, but no answer was forthcoming, but I’ll put my neck on the line and say it’s around seven years old. It cost me a little under £40 and is bottled at 46%. It’s also non-chill filtered and natural colour. Good to see, but an age statement would have been welcome.

Nose

Gooseberries, sugary shortbread, and a touch of Ben Nevis funkiness (plasticine?). Lemon oil, vanilla, oatcakes and Rich Tea biscuits. Water dials up the vanilla, turns down the citrus notes and introduces a massive smack of bourbon cask sweetness.

Palate

Sweet and sour up front, with a touch of vanilla and grapefruit cutting through. Some baking spices, lemon rind and hard-boiled barley sugars. The finish is dry and it leaves a lingering sour note. I feel it’s a little on the hot side. Let’s see what a few drops of water does. Well, it rounds off the edges while still maintaining the lemony top notes and the jagged spiciness is still there. I get a wee bit of jalapeño on the finish too. Unfortunately, that sour note is still present - although not quite as in your face as before.

The Dregs

I’ve had this bottle for six months and I’m only a quarter of the way down, which perhaps tells the story. It’s not a bad whisky, but I’ve been repeatedly reaching past it for other drams. I can’t help feeling a few more years in the cask would have worked wonders as I find the sourness and spice a little too much for my palate. A bit more maturation could have knocked it into shape. As I write, I’ve added another dollop of water and it’s now all lemon and barley sugars. It’s more pleasant for sure, but the ABV and mouthfeel have taken a hammering. Will be interesting to see how this particular Ben Nevis evolves in the next few years. It definitely has room to grow.

Score: 4/10

Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. CS

 
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Clyde Sutherland

Glaswegian Clyde takes a calm and gentle approach to whisky, until it’s not good. Then, the city with the river bearing his name takes over and we give him a little room to resettle. He enjoys all styles of whisky but is most likely to be seen sookin’ straight from the bung of an ex-bourbon cask, probably at a distillery located in Sutherland.

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