Benromach Whisky Core Range
Official Bottlings| 43% ABV
Score: 7/10
Very Good Indeed.
TL;DR
Something different. An old-school distillery whose whiskies are worth spending time on to explore
Off The Beaten Tracks, There Is Much Left To Explore
As I write these lines, there are nearly 140 whisky distilleries operating in Scotland, 22 million casks are maturing in Scottish warehouses, and every single second the industry exports 44 bottles of Scotch to all corners of the world. By the industry’s official figures, whisky should be overabundant. Yet, whisky also seems to be in short supply, as many bottles sell out in an instant and former staples are disappearing from the market or no longer readily available. The reasons for this seeming contradiction are many and quite complex, but, as so often in life, they all come down to money in the end. All this has been discussed at length by several authors on this website (myself included).
This time, I’d rather look on the bright side of things. There are plenty of whiskies out there and much is left to explore if one is willing to venture off the beaten tracks. Blends are vastly underrated, and lesser known distilleries such as Glencadam or Benromach might not be on everyone’s map, but they are certainly worth a visit.
Since its latest reopening in 1998, Benromach has built a good reputation among whisky aficionados but apart from that, it continues to fly under the radar – the recent label redesign notwithstanding. While the likes of GlenAllachie or Ardbeg steal the show with hyped-up releases, people at Benromach make no big fuss and let their whisky speak for itself. Maybe it is also due to their discretion that their whiskies remain vastly underestimated and are hence widely available at reasonable prices.
It all sounds a little like a bit of history repeating. Benromach has a chequered past. It was founded in 1898 and opened in 1900 only to close immediately due to financial woes. Ownership changed hands, the distillery reopened and, soon after, closed again. Things went on like this for several decades before Distillers Company Limited (today’s Diageo) purchased Benromach in 1953. DCL kept the distillery running for three decades but shut it down once more in 1983 when the industry was severely affected by the Whisky Loch. Benromach was mothballed and used as a spare parts depot by DCL over the following years. So, when Gordon & MacPhail (the renowned independent bottler from nearby Elgin) bought the place in 1993, only the washbacks were left from the original equipment. The distillery had to be completely refurbished and it took the new owners several years to accomplish this. Benromach reopened in 1998, and its stills have been continuously running since then. As Benromach is now backed by Gordon & MacPhail and generating further revenues from their Red Door Gin, it should hopefully have a more secure future lying ahead.
Benromach is one of the smallest Speyside distilleries and does things a bit different from the others. As stated on the official Benromach website:
“The vision for Benromach was simple: create a traditional, hand-crafted single malt based on the character of Speyside whiskies from yesteryear.”
While I would take the “hand-crafted” part with a pinch of salt, they certainly put in an effort to produce an old-school Speyside whisky. Their stills are crafted to distil an oily and heavy spirit, their barley is peated to 12ppm, and they only use first-fill casks which they mature on site. All this sounds pretty old-school to me.
To my dismay, Benromach recently redesigned their labels (I liked the previous ones better) and revamped their core range in 2020 (crossing the Organic off their list). At present, Benromach has two standard expressions at 10 and 15 years of age and a more exclusive 21 year old on the market. Their ‘Contrast’ series has some interesting gimmicks, and they steadily bottle selected single casks for different markets. Hence, Benromach seems to have something to explore for everybody – from the occasional whisky drinker to the single cask aficionado.
Prices are listed below and the range is widely distributed. Preferably, we should support our local dealers and have a wee chat with them while we’re there as they might have further bottles to explore.
Review
November 2020 release, 43% ABV
£30 or thereabouts and widely available
As they state on their label, Benromach is made for “genuine character”. So, expect some rough edges, as Benromach is not one of those generic and all-too-many smooth and gentle crowd-pleasers.
Full disclosure: I own an open bottle of the Benromach 10, and I have received samples of the other expressions from a colleague in a whisky group. Bottle code: 26/11/20 200990.
Nose
The nose is aromatic. Apples, pears, dates, figs, apricots, and raisins, milk chocolate, and leather are prominent, while a dash of perfume, some earthy notes, and subtle smoke round the whole thing off.
Palate
An oily texture that brings dried fruits, some leather and milk chocolate to the palate; oranges, cinnamon, and some spices join in while subtle smoke lingers in the background. The finish is of medium length and continues the same themes before it fades into ashes.
Score: 7/10
Mhor’s Notes
Bottle code: 03/11/2021 210958
Nose
Freshly chopped wood, vanilla pod, marzipan and all-spice. There’s a gentleness of figs, cream and fondant icing. That softness ebbs into the lingering smoke, which merges well with the aforementioned. I’m also picking up some raw cereal notes; oats to a degree but also a hint of wheat. A luxurious coating of milk chocolate finishes off an attractive array.
Palate
A pleasant weighty texture and a more noticeable degree of smokiness that carries through into the finish. Highland Toffee, some bitterness from the wood but not forceful. Sawdust and white chocolate on the finish. Green peppercorns, tarragon come midway along with cask char.
Score: 6/10
Wally’s Notes
Honestly, this is a staple here. When discussions came up that this would be reviewed by Adamh, I reached for mine to contribute - only to discover it’s gone. I bought this new bottle which came with the code 04/11/2021 inked onto the glass. This review covers only the second and third drams from the bottle which has only been open a day or two. Controversial; but I hugely prefer the new branding. The old transparent label looked terrible as soon as the bottle level dropped.
Bottle code: 04/11/2021
Nose
The nose is, at first, a sharp experience; slightly acidic, bitter and sooty with a candied lemon and grapefruit theme. There is muted sweetness, think grilled pineapple, with a little salt. There’s smoke but it’s not an aromatic fireside, rather a spent fire, like soot. It hints at a savoury element too, I’m imagining vegetable stock cubes or broth. A mulchy grassiness brings along the outdoors with menthol, eucalyptus, honey and green oak. Some tart apples. This is reminiscent of some Loch Lomonds (or is it that some Loch Lomonds are reminiscent of this?)
Palate
The arrival is acidic and sooty. It’s thinner than I remember. I’m thinking that it needs time, I leave it and return later but it’s fairly similar. Citrus peel, dry grapefruit and lemon, some sharp green apple peel too. Tartness continues; Tangfastics. The sweetness promised by the grilled pineapple doesn't materialise, it’s a bitter and slightly mineralic experience, not acrid, and not too much; indeed a style that many enjoy, including me. The finish leaves eucalyptus, brine, a little chilli and mint, some soot, salt and green apple peel once more. The finish stays around longer than you might expect and plays a prickly popping-candy game with the gums and tip of the tongue.
The Dregs - WM
Benromach does best for me with something more challenging to sit alongside; a bold cask or a little more maturity. This is a better dram, in my memory, than it is in this glass tonight, but it most definitely has character. It is at once simple and complex as you dive in and spend time with it. A second pour loosened things up nicely and adding just a few teardrops of water brought things together better and tempered the acidity. With more time I felt it a little more integrated, I think this (fresh) bottle will get better as the levels drop. I also think, not least thanks to the soot, I could pick this out as a Benromach. It’s pretty unique. There are some traits that remind me of Loch Lomond, although the Highlander does possess a sweeter, fruitier profile. This is more mineralic, slightly bitter, sooty, acidic and coastal. It’s very interesting, and I’m suspicious it’ll climb the score scale as it develops in the open bottle. However, I’m enjoying their “”Contrasts” series Cara Gold and Peat Smoke Sherry Cask a little more right now.
Score: 5/10
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
Just a touch flat
Review
2020 release, bourbon and sherry casks, 43% ABV
£60 or thereabouts and widely available
Nose
The nose is quite complex and offers much to unpack. I find meaty notes that remind me of a charcoal BBQ with honey sauce, there are earthy and mineral aspects, and it has a sweet touch that evokes dried fruits covered with maple syrup and some custard. Light smoke, perfume, and eucalyptus round the nose well off.
Palate
The arrival is oily, but the palate flattens over time. Those charcoal BBQ with honey sauce from the nose return, and mineral aspects dominate. More dried fruits with maple syrup and custard. Eucalyptus adds a fresh touch, while the subtle smoke turns into ashes. The finish is of medium length and warm. The sherry notes become more prominent towards the end; a chocolate bar appears while the earthy aspects, subtle smoke, and freshness linger on.
Score: 6/10
Earie’s Notes
Official bottling, 2016 release.
Nose
Demerara sugar, salted caramel, syrup and a mixture of chocolate and red fruits like ‘mon cherie bonbons’, cherries. Overall a full and rich sensation with a subtle yet deep, scorched earth dirtiness to it.
Palate
Viscous mouthfeel making for a rich and full arival. Treacle and caramel and quite a bit of salinity. Chocolate and toffee apples, slightly nutty with wood and spice notes. Again there’s a dirty touch to it, but rather than turning sulphury, it all remains exactly where it should be. The spices lead the way in the long, warming finish with wood and chocolate turning dry towards the very end.
The Dregs - EA
This 15 yo bridges the gap nicely between the standard 10 yo and its big badass sister that is the 100 proof/cask strength. It has the boldness and richness from the 10 yo cask strength, yet due to the lower ABV it’s accessible enough for those who might find the 57% ABV beast to be a bit much. Benromach and owners Gordon & Macphail used to have, “It’s the wood that makes the whisky” as their baseline until a few years ago and and while, from today’s point of view, that might seem a tad simplistic, this 2016 expression is living proof of the company putting that theory into practice.
Score: 7/10
Mhor’s Notes
Bottle code: 15/06/2020 200358
Nose
Compared to the 10, there’s more sherry present. Your typical notes of leather, a buffed red apple, red berries and a sappiness. Again, vanilla, some sense of the wood as well, ginger, fudge and roast beef. Some chocolate as well, honey, plums, raisins and walnuts, but also a less expressive nose compared to the 10 and more wood-focused.
Palate
This feels flatter than the 10, again more wood focused – surprise, surprise. The balance between the wood and the spirit has become unbalanced. More walnuts, dark chocolate, malty and worn leather. Coffee beans, liquorice and black peppercorns.
The Dregs - DM
The 10 is the clear winner for me, and a good standard overall. Age isn’t everything, especially when sherry casks step more into the equation. Now, don’t get me wrong, both of these are enjoyable pours and have a bit more substance and soul compared to many other distilleries. But when you compare the prices with the experiences offered and debate value; the 10yo comes out on top.
Score: 6/10
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
Well-settled, mellow, and multi-layered at the same time
Review
August 2020 release, 1st fill bourbon and sherry casks, 43% ABV
£125 or thereabouts and widely available
Nose
The nose is settled and mellow. On the fruity side, I find ripe oranges and roast apples that are filled with marzipan and seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg. An earthy aspect reminds me of a dunnage warehouse, and the sherry casks have added some chocolate, leather, nuts, and a slight sulphury touch to the mix. Subtle smoke lingers in the background.
Palate
Very similar to the nose: round and mellow with fruity, sweet, and earthy aspects. Those orange, apple, marzipan, cinnamon and nutmeg notes remain prominent as are the sherry notes from the smell. The finish is medium, with wood, sulphur and orange peel. Peat smoke remains.
Score: 6/10
Score: 6/10
Good Stuff.
TL;DR
Solid but rather focused
Review
July 2021, Sherry cask matured, 46% ABV
£45 or thereabouts and widely available
Nose
In the beginning, the nose is rather closed off, but opens over time. This one is on the dirty side with machine oil, earth, and a smouldering bonfire which is about to turn into ashes. Roasted bacon with a dash of wild honey. Dark berries such as cassis and bramble add another layer to the bouquet.
Palate
The whisky remains dirty and earthy on the palate and plays on the same themes as the nose. The finish continues these themes but is rather short. The bonfire smoke lingers on for a while.
Score: 6/10
The Dregs
As you might have already guessed, I like Benromach. These are kind of old-school whiskies that have a genuine character.
The Benromach 10 is dangerously quaffable. A dram offers much to explore if you take the time to delve into it. At 10 years of age and 43% ABV, this has more depth than some single casks at 20 years old or other, more renowned, standard bottlings of the same age. Weighing in the price, the score should amount to an 8/10.
The Benromach 15 is a fine and multi-layered whisky. Meaty and earthy notes are prominent while the sherry casks have added some dried fruits and maple syrup into the mix. The subtle smoke and eucalyptus notes add further layers to this whisky. Unfortunately, the 43% is insufficient to carry the full experience, and while the Benromach 15 is variegated, I also find it a bit unintegrated. A fine experience, nonetheless.
The Benromach 21 shows its age with grace. It’s well-settled, mellow, and multi-layered at the same time. The sherry notes blend in nicely with the earthy aspects and the subtle smoke. Again, the 43% is insufficient to carry the experience, and the slight sulphury touch does not sit well with me. The Benromach 21 is more to my liking than the Benromach 15, but it is not up there with the 10 in my book.
The Benromach Contrasts: Peat Smoke is not as complex as the other bottles but is equally solid in its delivery. I find it more one-dimensional than the others, but it’s still a good dram. The 46% does make a difference and I would love to see the same ABV used in the other drams, as this one does not flatten out over time.
All these drams have a genuine character. They remind me of old-school whiskies and the first-fill casks make an impact as well. These are aromatic whiskies that have much to offer and are well worth spending time on to enjoy and explore. Let’s hope that Benromach continues to fly under the radar so it remains widely available at affordable prices for us to drink and enjoy while others are busy chasing their unicorns. Meanwhile, let’s also see to it that Benromach fares well in the future by buying something from their range from time to time. We need more distilleries that deliver something different and offer some depths to explore.
Tried this? Share your thoughts in the comments below. AC
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Other opinions on this:
Ralfy (10yo)
Trenny and C (10yo)
GWhisky (15yo)
WhiskyJason (21yo)
Whisky Friend (Peat Smoke)
Whiskybase (all years)
Got a link to a reliable review? Tell us.
